Alcan Highway – Travels with Billie

Driving the Cassiar

Heading back to Montana from Alaska, I decided I’ve driven the Alcan enough. I think it’s been 17 or 18 times, including my childhood trips. I’ve never been on the Cassiar, which is the Western route to Alaska…and much less developed. Why not try a new challenge? I found it much like driving the Alcan used to be in the early years, although it’s paved and in some ways an easier drive than parts of today’s Alcan.

But! There are so many miles of no cell service, signs of civilization are few and far between, and I spent two long days feeling pretty alone. Ah, for want of a Tim Horton’s. And when my trusty phone ran out of battery because I wasn’t paying attention, I lost my route guidance. Didn’t really matter, I guess. There’s only the one road. Just keep following it, nitwit!

By the way, I’m trying to find a name for my travel companion. Any ideas? I plan to take her with me for my upcoming travels.

First Steps on My Adventure

And I’m off! I did take photos of the enormous backup at the Canadian border but decided that probably isn’t allowed. There were two cars in front of me. TeeHee! I went through the Chief Mountain crossing, mainly because the scenery is better closer to Glacier Park.

I was a little concerned about how my entry to Canada would go, given the bad feelings being generated over threatened tariffs and comments by our current administration. I shouldn’t have worried. The agent was Canadian-style polite and friendly. When I told her my purpose in Canada was to drive to my summer job as a Tour Director in Alaska, she was delighted and we had a great conversation about it. I finally had to go after a couple of cars came up behind me and looked like they were getting impatient. I just love Canadians!

The drive over the Alcan (or the Alaska Highway) was beautiful, as always. The first time I was on this road was in 1952, and it was still gravel and very primitive. It’s been paved since the mid-70s, and although it certainly isn’t a smooth freeway by any means, it’s a lot easier to drive these days. I didn’t hurry, took my time, and completed the trip without incident. I had no trouble finding gas or food, and the hotels I stayed in were a huge improvement on some of the lodging available in the 1950s and 1960s.

My wildlife count for the drive was four deer, three black bears, three herds of bison with the cutest babies, a porcupine, an elk, a moose, two bald eagles, two bunnies, and a wild herd of motorcyclists.

As I made the drive from Tok to Anchorage I was greeted by the spectacular mountains of Alaska, and it felt like coming home.

Driving the Alcan

There are some moments that take your breath away.

I began the long drive home from Anchorage at the end of my season as a tour director in late September

. I was tired, I was sick. REALLY sick. And I had forgotten how magnificent the drive is in the fall. The last time I drove this road was in 2019, and I was with my husband. This drive brought back those bittersweet memories, but I could still hear his amazement at the beauty of this area with the changing colors. I spent a lot of time on this trip pulling over and napping, since I wasn’t sleeping very well. Just imagine opening your eyes after a nap and finding Mount Drum staring back at you.