After leaving Malta, I decided to give myself a break. Instead of multiple flights and airlines to get home, I flew to London for a short stay to break up the long trip.
I stayed at The Resident Soho, which is a great little hotel tucked away on a dead end street. While I arrived too late the first day for their complimentary wine hour, they made an exception and poured a glass for me so I could relax after my flight. I chose Soho for its proximity to the West End theatre district. I quickly learned it’s the go-to spot for young Londoners’ social life. Despite the chill, every evening found dozens of people populating the sidewalks, and sometimes the street, with a glass in hand. I guess the pubs get too crowded and it spills other the door.
It was still a bit chilly for sightseeing strolls, but I did plenty of walking. A trip to Fortnum and Mason to stock up on yummy gifts for my favorite cousin was a big success. I only wish I had been able to bring an entire hamper back with me. But alas, after nearly two months of gift shopping my luggage was maxed out.
As I walked around the area early the first morning (after having amazing french toast at, of course, a French restaurant) I came across an intriguing window display. It looked like the passage in the first Harry Potter book where he gets overwhelmed with invitations to Hogwarts as they fly down the chimney. Of course, that meant I had to go back later when they were open. The store is Minalima, and it is owned by the people who did all the graphic design for the Harry Potter movies. Oh, it was so much fun to wander through the store and see items from the movies. Sometimes the best part of travel is the serendipity of finding the unexpected.
Their window display stopped me in my tracks.
Of course I had to take in a couple more plays while in London. This time it was Hadestown and Shadowlands. I loved Hadestown, and ended up listening to the music for days after. I chose Shadowlands solely because Hugh Bonneville plays CS Lewis, and I’m glad I did. The play was beautiful, sad, and touching.
It turned out that the theatre for Shadowlands was a good distance from my hotel. I walked, thanks to my Apple maps app (there were lots of turns and twists), but decided I didn’t want to walk back that late at night. So I got to take one of the classic London Black Cabs back to my hotel. It was a delightful ride through busy Soho streets, and the traffic made the drive much longer than usual. Which was great, because I got the best driver. We talked about when he came to the USA as a young man in the late 60s with a backpack and a copy of “On the Road” by Jack Kerouac. In the end he turned off the meter and charged me almost half the fare because it took so long and we had a great conversation. This is why I love to travel.
I also found a really good Italian restaurant, again thanks to my map app. Circolo Popular seems to be hidden away, sunken below street level. I walked past it twice before finding the entrance. But it was worth it. It reminded me of Mama Leone’s in New York City (which was an icon until it closed some thirty years ago.) Most of the seating was at long shared tables and the walls were lined with bottles. There was a party atmosphere, with lots of hustle and bustle. The food was great, and I ended up sharing comments on our meals with others who were sitting near me. While my meal was outstanding, I wish I had ordered the fettuccini alfredo. It’s prepared right at your table in a hollowed out parmesan wheel. Maybe I’ll have to go back and do that when I return in June.
The waiter preparing fettuccini for the table.
So now I’m back in the USA, doing some pet sitting until my next adventure. Next up is a whirlwind trip home to Montana to finally move into my own place, and then off to Europe again for a Viking River Cruise and some side trips. So, Dear Reader, stay tuned!
In the month I spent in Malta, there was a lot to experience. Since my return I’ve been mulling over how to cover it all, and I decided to go for it and do one long post. Feel free to pick and choose what you want to learn about. Get yourself a cuppa and join me in Malta, Dear Reader.
The Weather
There was a storm approaching the day I arrived, and my host warned me ahead of time. They wanted to be sure I didn’t leave the furniture on the balcony, and once the wind started I understood why. We had gale force 6 winds, and at night it howled around the building. I had an apartment on the fifth floor of a building directly across from the Mediterranean sea and right in the path of those winds. I spent three days watching the waves crash along the shore and looking out at the mostly deserted esplanade.
The weather during the month (mid-February through mid-March) was in the 60s Fahrenheit and usually windy. I understand it gets quite hot there in the summer, but I was happy to have the cooler weather. I’m not a fan of hot weather; see my posts about Thailand, Singapore, and Malaysia. Most days would find me walking along the esplanade if I wasn’t doing one of my many excursions around the island.
Transportation
Because the island is small and roads are narrow, I decided to forgo renting a car. There are plenty of alternatives. I did some guided excursions, I rode the Hop-On Hop-Off bus three times, and used Bolt (a local alternative to Uber, and very reasonable.) There is also a bus service that works very well on Malta, but I’m told it’s not so efficient on Gozo. The Bolt service was inexpensive and efficient. When leaving Malta I scheduled a Bolt pickup ahead of time. The driver arrived right on the dot and got me to the airport with time to spare. I’d recommend it for both arriving and leaving Malta, as well as trips around the island. It’s also a great way to have a conversation with a local!
The Food
I like to explore grocery stores in other countries. It helps me get familiar with different foods and learn what the locals eat. There have been some occasions when I’ve taken a plunge and bought something labeled in another language, not having any idea what it was until opened. There was a nice little grocery a few blocks from my apartment and I shopped there often. I did find that there were a lot English foods-the area is full of tourists and expats, mostly English.
I got into the habit of walking down the street to a small coffee shop for Elevenses (note reference to Frodo) that also served baked goods and light meals. The first day I went there I asked for coffee with milk or cream. They patiently explained that would be a cappuccino. That became my drink of choice for the rest of my stay, with the barista starting my drink as soon as he saw me walk in. They had wonderful pastries, most of which were Italian and Eastern European. Oh, the cannolis!!! By the end of my stay they greeted me like an old friend, and I got farewell hugs from the staff. By the way, to get to the cafe I walked past a Starbucks that was only two doors away. Why would I want to go to an American coffee shop in Malta?
My barista took great care of me.
My first dinner in Malta was in the restaurant in the building where I was staying. Thanks to the inclement weather, I had the place almost to myself and didn’t have to venture or into the storm. The host and the chef came to my table and made a fuss over me, and ended up making a special dish just for me. I went back several times, and each time I was treated to special attention and great food I didn’t order. I tried the traditional Maltese dish of stewed rabbit, and we joked that yes, it tasted like chicken.
Another favorite was the Indian restaurant around the corner, where I was again treated like a favored guest. There were also pizza places and Italian restaurants in abundance. A popular drink is a spritz, and there are as many variations as there are restaurants. The first time I ordered a glass of wine, I thought it seemed a bit expensive: 14 Euros. I didn’t realize that was the price for the entire bottle! It’s quite common to have the waiter recork the bottle so you can take the rest home.
Polly liked the SpritzesA traditional Maltese Ftira with tuna and feta cheese
Getting My Bearings on a Hop-On, Hop-Off Bus
Sometimes I like to start a visit to a new area with this tour bus. They’re available all over the world and it’s a great way to get an overall view of what you might like to visit. I’ll often do the entire circuit first, and then go back to stops that interest me. There are two routes on Malta: the Southern route includes the Three Cities, the Blue Grotto, the fishing village of Marsaxlokk, and some ancient temples. The Northern route (my favorite) includes Mdina and Rabat, the Ta’ Qali crafts village, Mosta, and the Malta Aviation Museum. There are more stops, but the ones I listed were the ones that interested me the most. There’s also a route on Gozo, but I took a guided tour on that island.
Guided Day Tours for In-depth Exploring
While I usually prefer to explore on my own, there are times when a guided tour is a great choice. Only a local guide can tell the stories that make the history come alive. OK, as a Tour Director I’m probably biased, but I did find that the several tours I did in Malta were well worth the time and money. They also did a great job of allowing just enough time to explore on your own. What follows is an overview of each of the areas I visited thanks to guided tours, as well as a couple of excursions on my own.
Mdina, The Walled City
I admit to a weakness for ancient castles and walled cities. On my first trip to Europe I went to the Chateau de Chillon near Montreux, Switzerland. I touched the walls that had been there for a millennia and I’ve been hooked ever since. So of course I fell in love with Mdina. Located in the center of the island, it’s built on a hill that affords a view all the way to the sea. Because Malta was vulnerable to raiders and pirates, Mdina was a bastion of protection. Only when the soldiers of the Knights of Malta arrived in the 15th century did the island have the protection needed to build cities along the coast.
While the photos I took show a historic city visited by hundreds of tourists daily, it is still home to many Maltese. Walking through the maze of pathways within the city, you can feel both the history of hundreds of years, and also a vibrant city of today. There is a Michelin starred hotel within the walls, along with many restaurants and shops. I indulged in both.
The entrance across the moat.Yes, someone lives here.View from the city walls to the sea.Lunch in a 500 year old restaurant.The city from below.
Rabat
Rabat is next to Mdina, literally across the road. Home to a Roman villa (which was closed when I visited) and St. Paul’s Catacombs, it’s also a city that attracts many visitors.
I did visit the catacombs, which incidentally are named St. Paul’s not because he was there, but because there is a church on the site named after the saint. There are lots of places that carry the name of St. Paul, including the town I stayed in. The catacombs have been used over many centuries, and are a labyrinth of tunnels and caves underground. Because they are so extensive, there are panic buttons placed throughout in case you lose your bearings. I limited both my time and my distance into the caves-I have to admit it creeped me out to see all those pathways going off in many directions. I’m not claustrophobic, but it still felt a bit tight to me.
As with all of Malta, the streets were decorated for the Lenten season. Malta is about 70% Catholic (down from over 90% a couple of decades ago) and Lent and Easter celebrations take center stage.
The catacombsDecorated for LentAs I walked this street I had to step aside for cars several times.An enticing restaurant.
Marsaxlokk and the Southern Coast
The fishing village of Marsaxlokk has an open market every Sunday. Originally a fish market, it now includes produce and other foods along with a craft market. There are several restaurants along the waterfront, all very busy on a Sunday afternoon but serving very enticing lunches.
While the market and the lunch was great, I was most interested in the fact that the village has provided a home for cats by the sea. Look closely and you’ll see that the boat has a sign designating it as a kitty abode.
Also along the Southern coast is the Blue Grotto; there is more than one in Malta, created by the erosion of the limestone cliffs and the sun playing on the blue waters. You can take a boat ride that will take you inside the grotto, but the sea was too rough most of the time. If that’s something you dream of doing, I’d suggest going in the summer when the weather is more cooperative.
The Three Cities
Across the bay from Valletta, the capital of Malta, are the Three Cities: Vittoriosa (Birgu), Senglea (Isla), and Cospicua (Bormla). All three have two names, as they were renamed by the Knights Of Malta at various times. Locals will refer to them by either name, so it can get confusing. All three are fortified cities that played a big part in defending Malta during the Great Siege of 1565. The historical entrance to Vittoriosa consisted of THREE gateways, all the better to keep the bad guys out.
Two of the gateways are above; just imagine the Turks trying to scale those thick walls. The third photo shows some of the damage to the city walls from another siege. During WWII Malta was bombed heavily and all three cities were badly damaged. In fact, more bombs were dropped on Malta than on London.
I can’t resist photos of doors.A street in Vittoriosa
As our guide led us through the streets and alleys of Vittoriosa, he explained that while this area of Malta is a highly desirable place to live, most younger Maltese are moving away to the interior of the island. Why? Well, look at the street above and think about trying to get your groceries from your car to your home. I did see a few garages, but I can only imagine that the drivers had to teleport their cars through the streets and into the garage.
We saw the home of the Grand Knight of Malta, and also the home of the Inquisitor. I took a moment to place my hand on the wall of the Inquisitor’s Palace, thinking of the fear and pain that took place within.
The Mosta Dome
Mosta is home to a church referred to as the Mosta Dome, the largest church in Malta and the the third largest unsupported dome in the world. The design was based on the Pantheon in Rome, with an opening in the top of the dome.
Most Maltese honor the church as the site of a miracle in WWII. Mass was being held during a bombing raid, and many parishioners stayed in the church rather than heading to the air raid shelter below. A bomb crashed through the dome and dropped near the altar, but didn’t explode.
A replica of the WWII bomb
The church was being refurbished when I visited. Watching the worker painting the ceiling, I couldn’t help but think how much easier that platform would have made Michaelangelo’s job in the Sistine Chapel.
Stairs going upStairs going down
When you visit the church, you start your tour by climbing 78 stairs to the roof and a walkway around the inside of the dome. Then you take 78 steps down. After touring the inside of the church, you can visit the air raid shelter below. And guess what? More steps! I admit it was a challenge for this “lady of a certain age,” but I got it done. The air raid shelter was fascinating, and I now understand why some people were reluctant to use them. They are narrow and bleak, and during a raid were likely crowded. Sitting in that cave listening to the impact of the bombs had to have been terrifying.
Gozo
The island of Gozo is part of the country of Malta, reached by frequent ferries from the main island. It tends to be somewhat more rural and more relaxed than the main island. I took a guided tour that gave a great overview of the island.
The focal point of the day was a visit to an ancient temple that has been dated to 5600 years ago. A visit to this world heritage site starts with a museum that explains the history of the site. Then you are able to walk to the stones and even enter the interior. The temples (there are two side by side) have survived millennia of weather, earthquakes, and raiders. In a couple of places you can see the remnants of the altars (above right.) I felt awed at standing in a place and taking in the idea that here, thousands of years ago, people came to this place to worship. And to appease those gods that kept causing earthquakes to topple the stones.
Limestone QuarryWatchtower
While exploring Gozo there were opportunities to see how the Maltese live. A limestone quarry was busy creating building blocks of the limestone used for building in Malta. Once the quarry is done producing, the quarry is filled with detritus, and then with soil, to make it arable land. Soil is at a premium on the islands, so farm fields are surrounded by rock walls to keep the soil from washing to the sea during storms. Those rock walls have no mortar; they are painstakingly fitted together so they will stand. That allows water to drain away while keeping the soil intact.
The photo of the watchtower above is only one of many I took. When the Knights of Malta arrived, they built a series of towers around the islands. All are within sight of another tower. In that way, those standing guard could light a fire to warn the rest of the island if potential raiders were sighted.
My tour of Gozo ended with time in the city of Victoria. There’s a lovely square with restaurants and shops where I had a great time purchasing gifts for friends and relatives and having conversations with local ladies who helped me decide on the perfect presents. While the cafes in the plaza were all very busy, I found a quiet rooftop restaurant (thank you, Apple Maps) that allowed me to sit above the fray and enjoy a spritzer while enjoying the view of the city. It meant climbing stairs up four flights, but well worth it.
Around Malta
In previous posts I showed some interesting modes of transportation, and Malta is no different. Someone is always coming up with a way to entertain tourists and make a living at it. The open train above is a way of seeing some parts of Gozo unaccessible by car. Incidentally, I found myself admiring our bus driver in Gozo-he was navigating streets so narrow and winding I couldn’t imagine a full-size bus could ever fit. But it did. The horse and carriage are offered by drivers in Mdina, with the drivers giving commentary on the ride.
One sign I wanted to get a photos of, and was never able to find one at the right time, was a “Hedgehog Crossing” sign – and I saw several. In lieu of the sign, I give you the following:
As I traveled through the countryside, I saw many small farms and a good many vineyards. The Maltese produce some excellent wines, but not enough to export. So if you want to try them, you’ll just have to make the trip.
There was also evidence of many civilizations that have come to Malta. Aside from the ancient temples and the walled cities built by the Knights, the Romans left behind villas and aqueducts, and the British contributed wartime barracks and facilities. By the way, the British used that Roman aqueduct to carry vital water supplies during WWII.
The quonset hut above is on the site of the Malta Aviation Museum. If you are interested in planes or in WWII, this is a great stop. Volunteers have been restoring planes and equipment, and their current project is restoring a Malta Sea Gladiator. Many of the planes in the museum were vital to the defense of Malta during the siege of WWII.
The View From My Window
While I did a lot of exploring on Malta, there was plenty of time to simply relax and enjoy the view from my apartment. With the storm the first few days, I watched the waves crash on the rocks below and planned my excursions. At one point I watched what I think was a sea rescue, with a helicopter lifting someone out of danger.
The strip of land in the photo is where legend says St. Paul was shipwrecked. After seeing the way the waves were crashing, I can understand why. The structures in the bottom of the photo are fish farms.
Each day brought something interesting to watch from my balcony. In calmer seas there were usually fishing boats putting out their nets, or sailboats in the bay. The sunsets were always lovely and didn’t last long enough. I often just sat and watched the birds fishing. They would fly back and forth, and suddenly rise up and dive straight down to grab the fish they saw under the water.
I loved my time in Malta, and I found the month I spent there to be a perfect mix of activity, learning, and relaxing. The people I met were all welcoming. Communication was easy, since the country has two official languages: Maltese and English. Prices, at least in the spring season, were reasonable. Malta has a major airport (my flight in came from Dubai and my flight out was to London) and it’s also easy to get there by ferry from Italy. Would I go back? Absolutely!
One of my favorite travel hacks is to spend time in a destination. Not just to collect photos of the iconic tourist sites, but to allow time to get to know the locals and their way of life. When you spend a day or two in one place, all you get is a snapshot (literally) of what it’s really like. Spend several days and you begin to get a feel for what life is really like there. The second or third time you walk into the local coffee shop they begin to recognize you, and you start to feel like part of the community. On this trip, I found two restaurants and a coffee shop that began to treat me like an old friend. How I love being greeted with the European kiss on both cheeks!
I decided to stay a month in Malta when I realized prices in the off season were very reasonable, and by booking a full month they were even better. I found a wonderful apartment with a balcony overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. That meant I could sample the local restaurants, or stay in and make use of the kitchen. And the apartment was less costly than renting an apartment in my home town. Since I currently don’t have an actual address, this was cheaper than staying home!
First Impressions
I’ve never been to Malta before, and while I did some research ahead of time, you can never really know what it’s like until you’re there in person. As my flight approached the airport, I caught a glimpse of Valletta and Fort St. Elmo, both of which I knew played an important part in the siege of Malta in the 16th century. There are fortified walls and a jumble of buildings, nearly all the color of the limestone that makes up the very foundation of the island.
Malta and the neighboring island of Gozo are both made of limestone. Unlike many islands around the world that were built by volcanic activity, these islands originated under the sea. It makes me think of the legend of the great earthquake that caused the city of Atlantis. While that one sank, these islands rose. Malta has been inhabited for millennia-there are temples that date back to 4000 years BC. While it was once covered with trees, the Phoenecians cleared most of them for use in shipbuilding. That left only the limestone for building material. As a result, it gives the entire island a decidedly beige hue.
This view of Valletta shows the limestone colors.
Because the island has limited space and has been inhabited for so long (something like 8000 years!), the cities and towns are a jumble of roads and buildings, most of which have been there for hundreds of years. It’s not unusual to be walking along a narrow street that was built in the 1500s, barely wide enough for a car, only to find yourself stepping to the side to allow a car to pass! It’s a real demonstration of history and modern life coming together.
I immediately learned that walking through the streets of my neighborhood could be a challenge. Nothing is in a straight line, and the sidewalks are only wide enough for one person. And calling them a sidewalk is generous. They are bricks that have been patched and broken and raised and lowered over the decades. I found the local grocery store only by using the map app on my phone. Because of the growing influx of tourists and expats, there is a lot of construction going on. Slowly, slowly, the uneven and broken pathways are being replaced with new brickwork, and the infrastructure is being modernized. Oh, and hotels. There are new hotels and apartments going up everywhere.
This is a small island, only about 7 miles wide and 28 miles long. Because of that, resources are limited. Electricity and water are expensive, and in the cities buildings are close and becoming taller. I noticed that while many people have dogs, just like in the USA, those dogs are smaller. It makes me smile to see big burly fellows walking along with a dog about the size of a small teddy bear.
I learned right away to get rid of my assumptions. What I thought was an abandoned construction site across the street and next to the sea – there were clearly squares in the rock – turned out to be ancient salt pans, where the sea was used to collect and dry salt for use. What I thought was another unused lot was actually a bocce field, complete with Italian restaurant and spectator seating.
A view of the salt pans from my balcony. And the island beyond is where St. Paul was shipwrecked 2000 years ago.
These are just my first impressions. During my stay I’ve done several excursions around the islands of Malta and Gozo, and every one was an exceptional adventure. In coming posts I’ll share photos and information on all the places I was able to visit. There are churches and ancient temples, museums and walled cities, catacombs and air raid shelters. I’ll share them all with you, dear reader!
After finishing my Southeast Asia cruise and visit to Singapore, I flew directly to Malta for a month-long stay. That trip involved two flights with a 6-hour layover in Dubai, starting at midnight. What can I say? It seemed like a good idea at the time.
I usually fly Delta Airlines since my status over the years has given me some extra perks, but the only reasonable route from Singapore to Malta was on Emirates Airlines. I had heard good things about it, so I decided to give it a try. Since I’m not flying Business or First Class, I didn’t find it to be all that different from most other airlines. Meh.
I wasn’t able to sleep on the first leg due to a couple of fussy children and the fact that I felt sticky from perspiring my way through the last day in Singapore. So arriving in Dubai at midnight found me almost asleep on my feet. Fortunately I remembered reading an article about how many airports are adding sleeping pods and rooms for travelers with long layovers. I found the desk (thank heaven for search engines on my phone) and was able to rent a pod. I was a little concerned about how cramped it would be, but it turned out great. I was able to get almost four hours of quiet, uninterrupted sleep. Therefore, airport pods are a Billie recommended option!
The recliner stretched out to a bed, and the blanket and pillow made it quite comfortable. Worth every penny!
Disembarking our ship in Singapore, I was facing a full day before my late evening flight. My friend Judy and I decided to do what I’ve done many times in the past: take an excursion that would end up dropping us at the airport in the afternoon. When I booked the excursion, however, I hadn’t counted on the heat and humidity. We did have a nice tour, although it was again a day of ending up with clothing wet from perspiration. Not the most comfortable way to begin a 22 hour trip; I’m heading to Malta from here. If you’re anywhere near as old as I am, you probably remember the TV program “Sweating to the Oldies” with Richard Simmons. Well, this was sweating WITH the oldies (fellow passengers) from my cruise.
Let me advise you from the start: the Singapore airport is a destination in itself. Had I realized this before (I arrived in Singapore at midnight and didn’t take much time to look around) I would have just gone straight to the airport. More about that later.
Our first stop was the National Orchid Garden, which, of course, was nearly all outside in the heat. The garden is big, with many winding paths. Since it is an easy place to get lost and we had limited time, our guide offered to take us through if we wished. I’m glad we stayed with him, since his knowledge of the various orchids made it more interesting. There was one place in the garden that was my favorite: the cool room. Have I mentioned that it’s hot in Singapore?
These orchids made me smile: don’t they look like they are smiling back?
Our next stop took us to Chinatown, which was great since we missed it when we were there before the cruise. We were given time to have lunch in the hawker mall, which was a maze of dozens of food vendors, all delicious. With the Chinese New Year approaching, the area was awash in red decorations and people making purchases for the coming holiday. After our lunch I went to explore the temple nearby.
We then headed to the Bay for a river cruise. We made a stop at Raffles, which was essentially an opportunity to peruse their (very expensive) gift shop. Then down to the river. It was a different perspective on the area we have visited before, with another look at the Merlion from the water. What I found the most interesting were the historic former warehouses along the waterfront. Built mostly by Chinese merchants, they were situated on the river before it was made into a bay.We were told the size of the building reflected the wealth of that particular merchant. Today they are restored buildings with shops and restaurants.
The contrast between the former warehouses and the skyscrapers show the history of Singapore’s growth.
We were finally off to the airport, and relieved that we would be in air conditioning again. When I had a long wait in the Buenos Aires airport, I got into a conversation with a fellow traveler who told me about the Singapore airport. He encouraged me to set aside some time to explore when I flew there. I’m so glad he did.
When we arrived a the airport I learned that the airline I was flying, Emirates, would allow me to check my bags up to 24 hours ahead of time. Not all airlines do this, but it’s a nice perk. If that isn’t possible, there’s a luggage storage desk right next to the early luggage drop. I checked my bags and friend Judy went to check in to her hotel room, which was also in the airport. Then we enjoyed a refreshment break at one of the many little cafes, and wandered through the gigantic shopping mall attached to the airport. And there in the middle of the mall is a lovely green space with a waterfall.
And there’s even a Disney-style ride!
All in all, this trip to Singapore and the cruise has been a great adventure. Next I’m off to Malta to hang out by the Mediterranean for a month.
The final port of call on our cruise was Leam Chabang, near Bangkok. We opted to take an excursion to the ancient city of Ayutthaya, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. While today it is a modern city, the entire area is dotted with ancient temples.
First, though, we made a stop at the Bang Pa-In Summer Palace. On the long drive north, our guide schooled us in the history of the Rama line of Thai kings…and made it interesting!
The palace grounds are quite large, with man-made lakes, monuments, elephant topiary, and various buildings used for the King’s palace, visiting dignitaries, ceremonies, and one small gingerbread house that was used by the king to get away from everyone. Our guide told us that when the king went to that little house, no one was allowed in: no servants, no family, no officials. This was his place for “me time.”
After a stop for another delicious Thai luncheon at Kantary Ayutthaya, we were off to visit the temples. A note about the meals we had in Thailand: I love Thai food. Interestingly enough, my favorite Thai restaurants are in Alaska-go figure. There’s a Thai food truck that operates in the summer near a hotel just South of the entrance to Denali National Park, and I always make it a point to visit whenever I’m in the area as I lead tours. But I always wondered just how authentic the food really was. Two years ago I had a Thai couple who told me they approved of the food from the truck, which I took as a good sign. I now know that the Thai food in Alaska is absolutely authentic. And yummy!
I couldn’t resist a photo of another unique vehicle for tourists. There are benches in the back and you just hang on for the drive!
Next we were off to visit the whole reason we took this tour: the ancient temples. The first stop was at Wat Yai Chaya Mongkoi (Wat meaning temple.) As soon as we neared the temple grounds, my friend and I said at the same time, “THIS is what we came to Thailand for.” Well, that and the food.
There was again the opportunity to climb up to view the complex from the main temple, and I again decided to be smart and not go there. I did climb a few steps, but with uneven and ancient bricks, no handrails, and soaring temperatures, we both decided a few steps was plenty. Oh, to be twenty again and able to scramble up to the top! The entire area was amazing, however, and there is a feeling of serenity about it, even with the many visitors.
Our next stop was Wat Maha That. This temple complex was even older than the first, and our guide explained how to tell the difference based on how the towers were constructed. The older ones look like corncobs! By this time the heat was getting brutal, and the park provided umbrellas to help keep the sun from beating on our heads.
The Buddha above is the only one in the complex that is complete. When the area was invaded by the Burmese they destroyed the many images of the Buddha, and when the Thai people tried to restore their temple the found most of the Buddhas had been destroyed and the heads smashed. The Buddha above was reassembled from the pieces.
The only other Buddha head that survived has become a symbol of the temple: it became encased in the roots of the tree above.
The final stop on our tour was at Wat Phra Is Sanpet, the oldest of the three sites we visited, and there are no photos to show you. It was truly so hot that several of us on the tour were becoming the worse for wear. After climbing around and up and down ancient steps and being literally drenched in perspiration, I was beginning to feel faint. Several of us on the tour opted to stay on the bus and look from afar. Hailing from Montana and Alaska, I just don’t have the ability to function in the heat and humidity. My usual coping mechanism of taking it slow and not going out in the hottest part of the day just doesn’t work on a sightseeing excursion!
Another island, another port, another excursion. After two sea days, which we were grateful to have so we could relax a little and stay cool, we headed out to explore the island. Our route took us completely around the island and gave us a sampling of the temples and shrines that dot the island.
Our guide was funny and irreverent, and explained the variety of cultures that live together on the island. There is a mixture of Thai, Japanese, Chinese, Malay, and Indian cultures that create a rich mixture of food, language, and customs. He explained that in his language the same word is used for “happy” (if it’s a verb) and “toilet” (if it’s a noun). His name means “Happy,” but he claims his mother named him that because she has a great sense of humor! At each stop he would point out the “happy place” so we would know where the toilets were.
Our first stop was at Plai Laem Temple. This stop actually had several religious sites at the same place. Our guide explained the significance of each area, and then allowed us time to explore on our own.
Right next to the temple above sits a statue dedicated to the Goddess of Mercy.
The area was a feast of sights and colors, and I couldn’t resist capturing all the details in my photos.
Next we were off to see The Big Buddha, a huge gold-plated statue that sits atop a high platform with steps leading up to it. What is the penchant for making everyone climb steps? I decided to view the Big Buddha from the bottom, given the heat and humidity. Have I mentioned that it’s very hot in Thailand?
Our next stop was the restaurant in a beautiful resort hotel on the coast: Nora Buri. Actually, on Koh Samui pretty much everything is on the coast! We had a buffet lunch that Polly approved of, and then took time to enjoy the view. Polly was more interested in the food.
One more stop before heading back to the ship. This was a memorial to Guan Yu, a general from nearly 2000 years ago who is revered as a God of War. He is respected for his integrity and loyalty, and apparently is known around the world in the Chinese community.
Along the way around the island our guide pointed out the Four Seasons Hotel where the third season of the “White Lotus” was filmed. He told us to look carefully through the trees and we could see the hotel…then he laughed as he said “Sorry, you can’t see it from the road!” He said they closed the hotel for several weeks during filming, and they laughed all the way to the bank.
When I grow up I think I want to be a scout for filming sites. Oh, wait, I’m already grown up…and retired. OK, so I want to do that in my next life. My luck I’ll come back as a frog. Or they would send me to scout a site for a remake of “The Thing” or “Mosquito Coast.”
I do have to share one more photo of the day. In keeping with the sense of humor of our guide, I want to share the decor in our bus. Equipped with huge speakers and decked out in red, it brought to mind a courtesy shuttle for a brothel. Maybe it would make a great filming site for my first effort.
Our final stop was at Chaweng Beach, where we were given time to walk along the beach or browse the many shops in the area. There was also a mall. By this point my friend Judy and I were shopped out and feeling the heat. We discovered a Starbucks, and while I prefer to sample local cuisines while traveling, an iced tea in an air conditioned store won us over.
Penang was the one port we decided to explore on our own. The ship docked right next to the island’s capital, George Town. Since it was just a short stroll into town we set off on our own. Our first challenge was to get past the dozens of taxi promoters offering to drive us around the area. Once we got out of the port area we thought we were safe, but we continued to run into hawkers for several blocks!
We found the town decorated with red everywhere in preparation for the coming celebration of the Chinese New Year. We just wandered wherever our fancy took us, which was fairly successful. We spent some time in the Little India area, wandered into a shop that made custom notebooks, and found a shop that sold fabrics, saris, and other clothing.
Pretty fancy entrance for a fabric store!
I promised to bring back Thai silk fabrics to my crafty friends at home, and really hit the jackpot here. They had silks and cottons in so many gorgeous colors I wanted to take them all home.
We ran across some of our fellow cruisers taking advantage of the local transportation option. After walking around in the extreme heat I was a little jealous, but not enough to climb aboard.
We finished our day with a walk around a park and along the waterfront. We also took a little time to view some of the buildings showing the influence of the colonial era.
I have to admit that there was much more to see in Penang, but the heat and humidity were beginning to make it hard to keep walking around. By the time we returned to the ship my friend and I were both ready for a cold drink and a shower!
We continued to sail North in the Malacca Strait to the island of Phuket. I’m going to admit my ignorance of the entire area: I didn’t know Phuket was an island. For that matter, I didn’t know Lankawi was an island either!
We again took a ship’s excursion by speedboat into Phang Nga Bay. This area contains the Ao Phang Ngo Marine National Park, with dozens of limestone islands filled with caves and rock formations.
If you look closely you’ll see a rope hanging down from one of the rocks on the underside of this island. Our guide explained that fishermen come out and use these ropes to catch fish.
The next destination was “James Bond Island,” which was used as a location for the “The Man with the Golden Gun.” I now know for sure that they didn’t really blow up the island in the end. Apparently the James Bond franchise is still popular, judging by the number of people flocking to this island. After shedding our shoes and jumping into the (shallow) water to walk to the shore, I stood there with my shoes in my hand and looked around the small beach surrounded by rocky cliffs, wondering what the attraction was. We were given nearly an hour to explore what looked to me like nothing more than a tiny beach. I saw a few people walking up some stairs in the rocks, and decided to find out where they led. First I had to get my shoes back on my damp feet, sand and all.
I gingerly started up the stairs, wondering where they went. A little higher, a little more, and around a corner was a view of the pinnacle rock that was so visible in the movie.
I continued along the stairway, and coming around a corner discovered we were not alone! The stairs led into a larger open area with another beach access for more boats. And as always, enterprising locals were taking advantage of the number of tourists coming to pay homage to 007.
Our next stop was Koh Panyee, a floating fishing village. This was advertised as an opportunity to meet the locals, see the village, and browse the shops. We were not impressed. The village is a confusing warren of buildings on pilings, and our guide warned us to stay close to him so we didn’t get lost. It became a march through narrow walkways with nearly every home having an assortment of wares that were clearly of the “Made in China” type. Stopping to purchase anything was nearly impossible, as our guide was on the move. We were hoping for local crafts and wares, but it was t-shirts and toys and keychains. The town was interesting, but has been converted into a tourist trap.
After returning to the island of Phuket, we were treated to lunch in a lovely Thai restaurant. The food was just what I had been looking forward to. Authentic Thai food! Yay! I was actually delighted to find that my favorite food truck in Alaska truly was Thai food on a level with the food in Thailand. The restaurant in Thailand was a lot fancier than the food truck, though. I spent some of our allotted time there wandering around the property taking photos of the beautiful facility.
Our second Malaysia port was Langkawi, where my friend and I took a ship’s excursion called the Geopark Day Cruise. I should note that I usually prefer to do my port visits on my own, but since I’ve never been to this area and don’t know the language or the challenges we might hit, we both preferred to take the ship tours for most of the ports. The last thing we wanted was to find ourselves unable to get back to the ship in time and stranded in the port.
Anyway, off we went on the Geopark Day Cruise. Now, with a title like that and the mention of dolphins and flying fish, we were expecting some commentary on the natural environment. Not so much. This was basically a booze cruise. It was fun, but certainly not what we expected. As soon as we left port the bar was open. On the way to the island where we were to have lunch, the crew put out a net behind the boat and allowed passengers to sit in the water and enjoy the view. I took one look and decided “NO.” I could just see myself struggling back up the net into the boat like a beached whale, needing the crew and passengers to drag me aboard. I just sipped my mango juice and enjoyed the view.
We stopped at a small island and were treated to a nice lunch at the edge of the jungle, with tables and chairs and wine. All the necessities of life. It put me in mind of the Jurassic Park movie where the family is having a fancy lunch on the beach and the young girl encounters some little dinosaurs. We saw no dinosaurs. But we DID see a bunch of wild boars! They smelled the barbecue and came around hoping for leftovers.
After lunch we were given time to enjoy the beach (having been advised beforehand to wear our swimsuits), and I went into the water with everyone else. I’d forgotten how much fun the ocean is to hang around in. I’d also forgotten how fast I burn, and how careful I should be about getting sunscreen everywhere. I did put on sunscreen, but I did it before I took off my shirt and ended up quite red on my shoulders.
My friend Judy and a couple of others we met on the tour were hanging around in the water, and they said they were getting a tingling feeling and wondered was it was. I felt nothing, but all three of them said they felt it. A little later the gentleman came over to us with a large leaf and something that looked like gel sitting in it. He had captured the creature; it turns out they were feeling the tentacles of a jellyfish. Apparently these aren’t terribly poisonous, but they did have enough of a sting to make my friends feel the tingling. Fortunately, it didn’t leave a mark!
Not many photos for the day, since this was mostly scenic cruising, and I didn’t want to take my phone ashore and get it wet. So you’ll have to settle for a quick shot of our cruise ship, barely visible between the islands.
Travels with Billie 