Europe – Travels with Billie

A London Respite

After leaving Malta, I decided to give myself a break. Instead of multiple flights and airlines to get home, I flew to London for a short stay to break up the long trip.

I stayed at The Resident Soho, which is a great little hotel tucked away on a dead end street. While I arrived too late the first day for their complimentary wine hour, they made an exception and poured a glass for me so I could relax after my flight. I chose Soho for its proximity to the West End theatre district. I quickly learned it’s the go-to spot for young Londoners’ social life. Despite the chill, every evening found dozens of people populating the sidewalks, and sometimes the street, with a glass in hand. I guess the pubs get too crowded and it spills other the door.

It was still a bit chilly for sightseeing strolls, but I did plenty of walking. A trip to Fortnum and Mason to stock up on yummy gifts for my favorite cousin was a big success. I only wish I had been able to bring an entire hamper back with me. But alas, after nearly two months of gift shopping my luggage was maxed out.

As I walked around the area early the first morning (after having amazing french toast at, of course, a French restaurant) I came across an intriguing window display. It looked like the passage in the first Harry Potter book where he gets overwhelmed with invitations to Hogwarts as they fly down the chimney. Of course, that meant I had to go back later when they were open. The store is Minalima, and it is owned by the people who did all the graphic design for the Harry Potter movies. Oh, it was so much fun to wander through the store and see items from the movies. Sometimes the best part of travel is the serendipity of finding the unexpected.

Their window display stopped me in my tracks.

Of course I had to take in a couple more plays while in London. This time it was Hadestown and Shadowlands. I loved Hadestown, and ended up listening to the music for days after. I chose Shadowlands solely because Hugh Bonneville plays CS Lewis, and I’m glad I did. The play was beautiful, sad, and touching.

It turned out that the theatre for Shadowlands was a good distance from my hotel. I walked, thanks to my Apple maps app (there were lots of turns and twists), but decided I didn’t want to walk back that late at night. So I got to take one of the classic London Black Cabs back to my hotel. It was a delightful ride through busy Soho streets, and the traffic made the drive much longer than usual. Which was great, because I got the best driver. We talked about when he came to the USA as a young man in the late 60s with a backpack and a copy of “On the Road” by Jack Kerouac. In the end he turned off the meter and charged me almost half the fare because it took so long and we had a great conversation. This is why I love to travel.

I also found a really good Italian restaurant, again thanks to my map app. Circolo Popular seems to be hidden away, sunken below street level. I walked past it twice before finding the entrance. But it was worth it. It reminded me of Mama Leone’s in New York City (which was an icon until it closed some thirty years ago.) Most of the seating was at long shared tables and the walls were lined with bottles. There was a party atmosphere, with lots of hustle and bustle. The food was great, and I ended up sharing comments on our meals with others who were sitting near me. While my meal was outstanding, I wish I had ordered the fettuccini alfredo. It’s prepared right at your table in a hollowed out parmesan wheel. Maybe I’ll have to go back and do that when I return in June.

The waiter preparing fettuccini for the table.

So now I’m back in the USA, doing some pet sitting until my next adventure. Next up is a whirlwind trip home to Montana to finally move into my own place, and then off to Europe again for a Viking River Cruise and some side trips. So, Dear Reader, stay tuned!

Malta: A Land of History and Tradition

In the month I spent in Malta, there was a lot to experience. Since my return I’ve been mulling over how to cover it all, and I decided to go for it and do one long post. Feel free to pick and choose what you want to learn about. Get yourself a cuppa and join me in Malta, Dear Reader.

The Weather

There was a storm approaching the day I arrived, and my host warned me ahead of time. They wanted to be sure I didn’t leave the furniture on the balcony, and once the wind started I understood why. We had gale force 6 winds, and at night it howled around the building. I had an apartment on the fifth floor of a building directly across from the Mediterranean sea and right in the path of those winds. I spent three days watching the waves crash along the shore and looking out at the mostly deserted esplanade.

The weather during the month (mid-February through mid-March) was in the 60s Fahrenheit and usually windy. I understand it gets quite hot there in the summer, but I was happy to have the cooler weather. I’m not a fan of hot weather; see my posts about Thailand, Singapore, and Malaysia. Most days would find me walking along the esplanade if I wasn’t doing one of my many excursions around the island.

Transportation

Because the island is small and roads are narrow, I decided to forgo renting a car. There are plenty of alternatives. I did some guided excursions, I rode the Hop-On Hop-Off bus three times, and used Bolt (a local alternative to Uber, and very reasonable.) There is also a bus service that works very well on Malta, but I’m told it’s not so efficient on Gozo. The Bolt service was inexpensive and efficient. When leaving Malta I scheduled a Bolt pickup ahead of time. The driver arrived right on the dot and got me to the airport with time to spare. I’d recommend it for both arriving and leaving Malta, as well as trips around the island. It’s also a great way to have a conversation with a local!

The Food

I like to explore grocery stores in other countries. It helps me get familiar with different foods and learn what the locals eat. There have been some occasions when I’ve taken a plunge and bought something labeled in another language, not having any idea what it was until opened. There was a nice little grocery a few blocks from my apartment and I shopped there often. I did find that there were a lot English foods-the area is full of tourists and expats, mostly English.

I got into the habit of walking down the street to a small coffee shop for Elevenses (note reference to Frodo) that also served baked goods and light meals. The first day I went there I asked for coffee with milk or cream. They patiently explained that would be a cappuccino. That became my drink of choice for the rest of my stay, with the barista starting my drink as soon as he saw me walk in. They had wonderful pastries, most of which were Italian and Eastern European. Oh, the cannolis!!! By the end of my stay they greeted me like an old friend, and I got farewell hugs from the staff. By the way, to get to the cafe I walked past a Starbucks that was only two doors away. Why would I want to go to an American coffee shop in Malta?

My barista took great care of me.

My first dinner in Malta was in the restaurant in the building where I was staying. Thanks to the inclement weather, I had the place almost to myself and didn’t have to venture or into the storm. The host and the chef came to my table and made a fuss over me, and ended up making a special dish just for me. I went back several times, and each time I was treated to special attention and great food I didn’t order. I tried the traditional Maltese dish of stewed rabbit, and we joked that yes, it tasted like chicken.

Another favorite was the Indian restaurant around the corner, where I was again treated like a favored guest. There were also pizza places and Italian restaurants in abundance. A popular drink is a spritz, and there are as many variations as there are restaurants. The first time I ordered a glass of wine, I thought it seemed a bit expensive: 14 Euros. I didn’t realize that was the price for the entire bottle! It’s quite common to have the waiter recork the bottle so you can take the rest home.

Getting My Bearings on a Hop-On, Hop-Off Bus

Sometimes I like to start a visit to a new area with this tour bus. They’re available all over the world and it’s a great way to get an overall view of what you might like to visit. I’ll often do the entire circuit first, and then go back to stops that interest me. There are two routes on Malta: the Southern route includes the Three Cities, the Blue Grotto, the fishing village of Marsaxlokk, and some ancient temples. The Northern route (my favorite) includes Mdina and Rabat, the Ta’ Qali crafts village, Mosta, and the Malta Aviation Museum. There are more stops, but the ones I listed were the ones that interested me the most. There’s also a route on Gozo, but I took a guided tour on that island.

Guided Day Tours for In-depth Exploring

While I usually prefer to explore on my own, there are times when a guided tour is a great choice. Only a local guide can tell the stories that make the history come alive. OK, as a Tour Director I’m probably biased, but I did find that the several tours I did in Malta were well worth the time and money. They also did a great job of allowing just enough time to explore on your own. What follows is an overview of each of the areas I visited thanks to guided tours, as well as a couple of excursions on my own.

Mdina, The Walled City

I admit to a weakness for ancient castles and walled cities. On my first trip to Europe I went to the Chateau de Chillon near Montreux, Switzerland. I touched the walls that had been there for a millennia and I’ve been hooked ever since. So of course I fell in love with Mdina. Located in the center of the island, it’s built on a hill that affords a view all the way to the sea. Because Malta was vulnerable to raiders and pirates, Mdina was a bastion of protection. Only when the soldiers of the Knights of Malta arrived in the 15th century did the island have the protection needed to build cities along the coast.

While the photos I took show a historic city visited by hundreds of tourists daily, it is still home to many Maltese. Walking through the maze of pathways within the city, you can feel both the history of hundreds of years, and also a vibrant city of today. There is a Michelin starred hotel within the walls, along with many restaurants and shops. I indulged in both.

Rabat

Rabat is next to Mdina, literally across the road. Home to a Roman villa (which was closed when I visited) and St. Paul’s Catacombs, it’s also a city that attracts many visitors.

I did visit the catacombs, which incidentally are named St. Paul’s not because he was there, but because there is a church on the site named after the saint. There are lots of places that carry the name of St. Paul, including the town I stayed in. The catacombs have been used over many centuries, and are a labyrinth of tunnels and caves underground. Because they are so extensive, there are panic buttons placed throughout in case you lose your bearings. I limited both my time and my distance into the caves-I have to admit it creeped me out to see all those pathways going off in many directions. I’m not claustrophobic, but it still felt a bit tight to me.

As with all of Malta, the streets were decorated for the Lenten season. Malta is about 70% Catholic (down from over 90% a couple of decades ago) and Lent and Easter celebrations take center stage.

As I walked this street I had to step aside for cars several times.

Marsaxlokk and the Southern Coast

The fishing village of Marsaxlokk has an open market every Sunday. Originally a fish market, it now includes produce and other foods along with a craft market. There are several restaurants along the waterfront, all very busy on a Sunday afternoon but serving very enticing lunches.

While the market and the lunch was great, I was most interested in the fact that the village has provided a home for cats by the sea. Look closely and you’ll see that the boat has a sign designating it as a kitty abode.

Also along the Southern coast is the Blue Grotto; there is more than one in Malta, created by the erosion of the limestone cliffs and the sun playing on the blue waters. You can take a boat ride that will take you inside the grotto, but the sea was too rough most of the time. If that’s something you dream of doing, I’d suggest going in the summer when the weather is more cooperative.

The Three Cities

Across the bay from Valletta, the capital of Malta, are the Three Cities: Vittoriosa (Birgu), Senglea (Isla), and Cospicua (Bormla). All three have two names, as they were renamed by the Knights Of Malta at various times. Locals will refer to them by either name, so it can get confusing. All three are fortified cities that played a big part in defending Malta during the Great Siege of 1565. The historical entrance to Vittoriosa consisted of THREE gateways, all the better to keep the bad guys out.

Two of the gateways are above; just imagine the Turks trying to scale those thick walls. The third photo shows some of the damage to the city walls from another siege. During WWII Malta was bombed heavily and all three cities were badly damaged. In fact, more bombs were dropped on Malta than on London.

As our guide led us through the streets and alleys of Vittoriosa, he explained that while this area of Malta is a highly desirable place to live, most younger Maltese are moving away to the interior of the island. Why? Well, look at the street above and think about trying to get your groceries from your car to your home. I did see a few garages, but I can only imagine that the drivers had to teleport their cars through the streets and into the garage.

We saw the home of the Grand Knight of Malta, and also the home of the Inquisitor. I took a moment to place my hand on the wall of the Inquisitor’s Palace, thinking of the fear and pain that took place within.

The Mosta Dome

Mosta is home to a church referred to as the Mosta Dome, the largest church in Malta and the the third largest unsupported dome in the world. The design was based on the Pantheon in Rome, with an opening in the top of the dome.

Most Maltese honor the church as the site of a miracle in WWII. Mass was being held during a bombing raid, and many parishioners stayed in the church rather than heading to the air raid shelter below. A bomb crashed through the dome and dropped near the altar, but didn’t explode.

The church was being refurbished when I visited. Watching the worker painting the ceiling, I couldn’t help but think how much easier that platform would have made Michaelangelo’s job in the Sistine Chapel.

When you visit the church, you start your tour by climbing 78 stairs to the roof and a walkway around the inside of the dome. Then you take 78 steps down. After touring the inside of the church, you can visit the air raid shelter below. And guess what? More steps! I admit it was a challenge for this “lady of a certain age,” but I got it done. The air raid shelter was fascinating, and I now understand why some people were reluctant to use them. They are narrow and bleak, and during a raid were likely crowded. Sitting in that cave listening to the impact of the bombs had to have been terrifying.

Gozo

The island of Gozo is part of the country of Malta, reached by frequent ferries from the main island. It tends to be somewhat more rural and more relaxed than the main island. I took a guided tour that gave a great overview of the island.

The focal point of the day was a visit to an ancient temple that has been dated to 5600 years ago. A visit to this world heritage site starts with a museum that explains the history of the site. Then you are able to walk to the stones and even enter the interior. The temples (there are two side by side) have survived millennia of weather, earthquakes, and raiders. In a couple of places you can see the remnants of the altars (above right.) I felt awed at standing in a place and taking in the idea that here, thousands of years ago, people came to this place to worship. And to appease those gods that kept causing earthquakes to topple the stones.

While exploring Gozo there were opportunities to see how the Maltese live. A limestone quarry was busy creating building blocks of the limestone used for building in Malta. Once the quarry is done producing, the quarry is filled with detritus, and then with soil, to make it arable land. Soil is at a premium on the islands, so farm fields are surrounded by rock walls to keep the soil from washing to the sea during storms. Those rock walls have no mortar; they are painstakingly fitted together so they will stand. That allows water to drain away while keeping the soil intact.

The photo of the watchtower above is only one of many I took. When the Knights of Malta arrived, they built a series of towers around the islands. All are within sight of another tower. In that way, those standing guard could light a fire to warn the rest of the island if potential raiders were sighted.

My tour of Gozo ended with time in the city of Victoria. There’s a lovely square with restaurants and shops where I had a great time purchasing gifts for friends and relatives and having conversations with local ladies who helped me decide on the perfect presents. While the cafes in the plaza were all very busy, I found a quiet rooftop restaurant (thank you, Apple Maps) that allowed me to sit above the fray and enjoy a spritzer while enjoying the view of the city. It meant climbing stairs up four flights, but well worth it.

Around Malta

In previous posts I showed some interesting modes of transportation, and Malta is no different. Someone is always coming up with a way to entertain tourists and make a living at it. The open train above is a way of seeing some parts of Gozo unaccessible by car. Incidentally, I found myself admiring our bus driver in Gozo-he was navigating streets so narrow and winding I couldn’t imagine a full-size bus could ever fit. But it did. The horse and carriage are offered by drivers in Mdina, with the drivers giving commentary on the ride.

One sign I wanted to get a photos of, and was never able to find one at the right time, was a “Hedgehog Crossing” sign – and I saw several. In lieu of the sign, I give you the following:

As I traveled through the countryside, I saw many small farms and a good many vineyards. The Maltese produce some excellent wines, but not enough to export. So if you want to try them, you’ll just have to make the trip.

There was also evidence of many civilizations that have come to Malta. Aside from the ancient temples and the walled cities built by the Knights, the Romans left behind villas and aqueducts, and the British contributed wartime barracks and facilities. By the way, the British used that Roman aqueduct to carry vital water supplies during WWII.

The quonset hut above is on the site of the Malta Aviation Museum. If you are interested in planes or in WWII, this is a great stop. Volunteers have been restoring planes and equipment, and their current project is restoring a Malta Sea Gladiator. Many of the planes in the museum were vital to the defense of Malta during the siege of WWII.

The View From My Window

While I did a lot of exploring on Malta, there was plenty of time to simply relax and enjoy the view from my apartment. With the storm the first few days, I watched the waves crash on the rocks below and planned my excursions. At one point I watched what I think was a sea rescue, with a helicopter lifting someone out of danger.

The strip of land in the photo is where legend says St. Paul was shipwrecked. After seeing the way the waves were crashing, I can understand why. The structures in the bottom of the photo are fish farms.

Each day brought something interesting to watch from my balcony. In calmer seas there were usually fishing boats putting out their nets, or sailboats in the bay. The sunsets were always lovely and didn’t last long enough. I often just sat and watched the birds fishing. They would fly back and forth, and suddenly rise up and dive straight down to grab the fish they saw under the water.

I loved my time in Malta, and I found the month I spent there to be a perfect mix of activity, learning, and relaxing. The people I met were all welcoming. Communication was easy, since the country has two official languages: Maltese and English. Prices, at least in the spring season, were reasonable. Malta has a major airport (my flight in came from Dubai and my flight out was to London) and it’s also easy to get there by ferry from Italy. Would I go back? Absolutely!

A Month in Malta

One of my favorite travel hacks is to spend time in a destination. Not just to collect photos of the iconic tourist sites, but to allow time to get to know the locals and their way of life. When you spend a day or two in one place, all you get is a snapshot (literally) of what it’s really like. Spend several days and you begin to get a feel for what life is really like there. The second or third time you walk into the local coffee shop they begin to recognize you, and you start to feel like part of the community. On this trip, I found two restaurants and a coffee shop that began to treat me like an old friend. How I love being greeted with the European kiss on both cheeks!

I decided to stay a month in Malta when I realized prices in the off season were very reasonable, and by booking a full month they were even better. I found a wonderful apartment with a balcony overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. That meant I could sample the local restaurants, or stay in and make use of the kitchen. And the apartment was less costly than renting an apartment in my home town. Since I currently don’t have an actual address, this was cheaper than staying home!

First Impressions

I’ve never been to Malta before, and while I did some research ahead of time, you can never really know what it’s like until you’re there in person. As my flight approached the airport, I caught a glimpse of Valletta and Fort St. Elmo, both of which I knew played an important part in the siege of Malta in the 16th century. There are fortified walls and a jumble of buildings, nearly all the color of the limestone that makes up the very foundation of the island.

Malta and the neighboring island of Gozo are both made of limestone. Unlike many islands around the world that were built by volcanic activity, these islands originated under the sea. It makes me think of the legend of the great earthquake that caused the city of Atlantis. While that one sank, these islands rose. Malta has been inhabited for millennia-there are temples that date back to 4000 years BC. While it was once covered with trees, the Phoenecians cleared most of them for use in shipbuilding. That left only the limestone for building material. As a result, it gives the entire island a decidedly beige hue.

This view of Valletta shows the limestone colors.

Because the island has limited space and has been inhabited for so long (something like 8000 years!), the cities and towns are a jumble of roads and buildings, most of which have been there for hundreds of years. It’s not unusual to be walking along a narrow street that was built in the 1500s, barely wide enough for a car, only to find yourself stepping to the side to allow a car to pass! It’s a real demonstration of history and modern life coming together.

I immediately learned that walking through the streets of my neighborhood could be a challenge. Nothing is in a straight line, and the sidewalks are only wide enough for one person. And calling them a sidewalk is generous. They are bricks that have been patched and broken and raised and lowered over the decades. I found the local grocery store only by using the map app on my phone. Because of the growing influx of tourists and expats, there is a lot of construction going on. Slowly, slowly, the uneven and broken pathways are being replaced with new brickwork, and the infrastructure is being modernized. Oh, and hotels. There are new hotels and apartments going up everywhere.

This is a small island, only about 7 miles wide and 28 miles long. Because of that, resources are limited. Electricity and water are expensive, and in the cities buildings are close and becoming taller. I noticed that while many people have dogs, just like in the USA, those dogs are smaller. It makes me smile to see big burly fellows walking along with a dog about the size of a small teddy bear.

I learned right away to get rid of my assumptions. What I thought was an abandoned construction site across the street and next to the sea – there were clearly squares in the rock – turned out to be ancient salt pans, where the sea was used to collect and dry salt for use. What I thought was another unused lot was actually a bocce field, complete with Italian restaurant and spectator seating.

A view of the salt pans from my balcony. And the island beyond is where St. Paul was shipwrecked 2000 years ago.

These are just my first impressions. During my stay I’ve done several excursions around the islands of Malta and Gozo, and every one was an exceptional adventure. In coming posts I’ll share photos and information on all the places I was able to visit. There are churches and ancient temples, museums and walled cities, catacombs and air raid shelters. I’ll share them all with you, dear reader!

Madeira, Portugal

This was my third time in Funchal, on one of the Islands of Madeira. It was a little bittersweet for me, since this was one of the ports my husband and I loved.

I again took a hop-on-hop-off bus tour, and then returned to the city center to go to their wonderful market and have lunch. I love visiting markets around the world. They have such interesting foods and products, and they are a photographers playground.

The one thing I wanted to do was have lunch at the sidewalk restaurant Richard and I visited when we were there. I tramped up and down several streets, realizing that it had been ten years since my last visit and the area had changed a lot. But I found it! I recreated the photo I took back then with my glass of Prosecco, but adding in my travel companion Polly the porcupine. She liked the Prosecco too.

Madeira remains one of my favorite ports.

Vigo, Spain

I’m a bit late in posting, but I was busy helping row across the Atlantic Ocean. Not really, but doesn’t that bring up visions of Vikings heading to the New World?

Anyway, I took a ship tour of Vigo and got to check out the city. It was a nice overview with stops at an old fort and some gardens. We stopped at a 5-star hotel for lunch before returning to the dock, and I got to try some local wine.

What I didn’t realize when I booked the tour was that the Old Town section was just a stroll from the ship. Of course I had to take advantage of that! I learned that their Old Town is quite modern, with lots of shops. As you can see by my photos, my favorite was the bakery! I ended up with the yummiest raspberry tea cake, and I enjoyed every guilty bite.

A Day In Bilbao, Spain

Today was a rather warm port day in Bilbao. I did a Hop On Hop Off bus tour and got off at the Guggenheim Museum. I decided to walk back to the place where the ship shuttle dropped us off. I think that was a mistake-I ended up with sweat in my eyes. I guess I need to remember we’re no longer above the Arctic Circle.

The museum was interesting; there were some installations that gave an idea of how the rest of the world sees us. It’s not flattering.

Polly enjoyed the museum too!

Oxford and the Cotswolds

I took another tour to a place I’ve long wanted to visit: The Cotswolds. This was a smaller tour, limited to 14. If you’re wondering, it was a Rabbies tour and I highly recommend them. Oxford wasn’t my real destination, but I enjoyed it a lot. It happened to be graduation day for some of the colleges (I think there are 39) so the streets were filled with family members with flowers and graduates in their colorful robes. What an exciting day for a young person starting out with an Oxford degree!

Then on to the Cotswolds, which has beautiful countryside. All the houses are made of Cotswold limestone, giving even the new buildings a timeless feel. In Burford I learned that the are two ways to have your scones: Devon, with the clotted cream on the bottom and then the jam, or Cornwall, which is just the opposite. Apparently it’s quite a rivalry. I’ll leave it to you, dear reader, to decide which you prefer.

I also learned that even a small quaint village in the English countryside can have a traffic problem. The cars were backed up as far as you could see in both directions.

Stonehenge

I tend to avoid the big tourist destinations (for the most part), but…Stonehenge! I remember reading about it in our National Geographic or some similar publication when I was a child, and I was fascinated. Who built it? Why? What were those people like, and how did they live? Since I had a few days in London I decided I had to see it in person. I took a day tour-crowded bus, lots of tourists-but I’m glad I did. The site is magnificent, and it’s so large it didn’t feel crowded. When you stand on the hill and realize you are in the presence of 4000 years of history, you can’t help but feel awed.

Here I go again…

Getting ready to leave the land of Charlie Russell to head to the land of Shakespeare. This eight week adventure will take me from one end of the globe to the other, ending up in New Zealand before I fly home. Yes, I’m doing it alone. Yes, I’m ok with that.

My First International Trip

It’s never too late to start learning about the world.

International travel came late to me. Sure, I had been to Canada and Mexico, but I hardly considered that “international travel.” After all, I was born only 25 miles from Canada, and we considered them neighbors. Of course, driving to Alaska entailed more miles within Canada than in US territory. And living in San Diego meant Mexico was just a quick jog south. I did have a passport, but only because I needed one to fly into Vancouver to start an Alaska cruise.

That all changed ten years ago when, at the tender age of 65, I embarked on a new career as a seasonal employee in Alaska. Suddenly instead of being surrounded by career-minded professionals, I was working with retirees, college students, and international students. There was also a whole new group to me; I’ll call them The Wanderers. They were a whole cadre of seasonal workers who went from one seasonal job to the next. Alaska in the summer, Florida or ski resorts or Antarctica in the winter. In between, they traveled. Sitting in the EDR (Employee Dining Room), I would hear their stories of Europe, Australia, Southeast Asia, Central America-they all had wanderlust. Some were more passionate than others, but they all had a suitcase ready to go.

Halfway though my first season, my friend Diane (a dedicated Wanderer) sat across from me in the EDR one evening and said she found a condo in Switzerland for $300 for the week, and would I like to go? Before I even stopped to consider it, I was in! The rest of the season was spent making plans for the places we wanted to see and how to get around. We would meet at the train station in Geneva; Diane was coming from Paris, and I was coming from the Geneva airport.

Back at home, I packed my bags and made all the arrangements, and finally it was time to go. As my hubby drove me to the airport I got a case of the heebie jeebies. “I’m going to a foreign country alone. I only speak English. I’ve never been to Europe. What if I can’t find Diane? What if I get lost? Yada yada yada.” Dear husband assured me I would do fine, and it would be an adventure to remember.

Arriving in Geneva early in the morning, I went through customs and was terrified that I wouldn’t be able to understand the customs officer. But he spoke English. “Where will you be staying, madame?” I nervously pulled out the hotel confirmation and hesitantly told him I’d be going to the ski resort city of “lay-SIN”. He smiled and shook his head ruefully, and said, “Ah, LAYson” in his wonderful accent that made me wish I had taken French in high school. Stamp! And off to downtown Geneva to explore until time to meet Diane at the train station.

According to my friend Diane, you are never lost if you are with someone. You are just exploring new places.

The train station had a place to store my bag (only one-orders from Diane), and I grabbed my camera to go exploring. I was so enchanted with the city that I didn’t have time to be nervous! Until it got near to the time to meet Diane. What if she missed the train? What if it’s late? What if I can’t find her? But at the appointed time, there she was, there we were, and there we went.

The first revelation to me was that language wasn’t really a problem. Nearly everyone spoke English, which embarrassed me for not being able to speak a word of another language. There were times when it was a challenge. The policeman we asked to tell us where the head of the trail down the mountain to Aigle started. He spoke very little English, but we did get his warning about “No go. Rocks. Very bad.” We went anyway, and I had the bruises afterward to prove it. And the woman selling cheese at a village Christmas market. She called another vendor over to explain that she made the cheese herself from her cows, and provided instructions on how to use it for fondue. And the restaurant we loved (and went back to, because it was wonderful) where our server carried on a fun conversation with us, then went to tend her other customers in German, French, and Italian.

We went to a castle that was a thousand years old, and a town that was about the same age. We wandered through cities where stores like Benetton showed their wares in the windows of buildings that were hundreds of years old. They don’t tear down their old buildings to build malls that will stand empty in 30 years. They just refurbish and repurpose them.

I learned a lot from that trip. First, according to Diane, you are never lost if you are with someone. You are just exploring. Second, people everywhere are kind, interesting, and willing to help if you are polite and treat them well. Oh, and the trains in Switzerland ALWAYS run on time. So don’t be late.