Tag: New Zealand

New Zealand Northland

The last time I visited New Zealand I didn’t get to the far North end or the far South end of the country. Even as I boarded my flight home, I knew I’d have to return. I decided to focus on the Northland this time, above Auckland. I’m so glad I did. As you drive North the island grows narrower, so the ocean is never far away. There are forests and farms and lovely towns that entice you to slow down and enjoy the ride.

I chose my favorite photos from the Northland segment of my trip, and I’ll describe the adventure below.

I chose to stay in different areas of the Northland, spending two or three days in each place. It would have been easy enough to use one spot as a base and drive to the various places, but I was interested in trying out some different lodgings.

This part of the trip involved picking up my rental car after leaving Waiheke Island. I decided to use a location North of Auckland and take an Uber to the office from the ferry terminal, rather than trying to get used to driving on the left in the heart of the city. I’ve found that it’s fairly easy to drive on the other side of the road once you get on the highway-it’s the turns that can be a challenge. The biggest issue I usually have is turning on the wipers when I mean to use my turn signal. All the controls are switched.

My first stop was the Avalon resort in KeriKeri. Reasonably priced for what you get, I had a one-bedroom cabin in this lovely setting with ducks and ponds and lots of trees. Oh, and chickens. I was warned to keep the gate to my deck closed, because the chickens like to come into the house. Sure enough, I had a visitor each day.

I went to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds to learn a bit about the Maori culture. There was a museum, a guided tour, and a show with young people demonstrating their songs and stories. I’ve always been fascinated with the Maori culture, but this day gave me a whole new understanding and respect for the people and how they have worked to preserve their culture.

The following day I drove to the West Coast to visit the Waipoua Forest Sanctuary. The gigantic kauri trees there are some of the oldest living creatures on earth. Unfortunately, they are threatened by a disease that is killing many of them, so the sanctuary requires all visitors to go through an entryway that will sanitize their shoes to prevent spreading the disease. So I couldn’t hug the tree, but just being in its presence is awesome.

My next location was an Airbnb in Ahipara on the West Coast. This was a beautiful home right across the street from the beach. The entire front walls of the home opened up, so I could sit in the kitchen, listen to the waves, and breathe in the scent of the jasmine in the yard.

That was the perfect starting point to head to the farthest North point of the country, Cape Reinga. It was threatening rain, but turned out to be a magical day. As I approached the parking area for the Cape, it was raining and foggy. I was disappointed since I couldn’t see the ocean at all. I decided to get out of my car and walk over to the restrooms anyway, and when I did the rain slowed and I could see an archway with a path leading through it. As I walked through the arch, the fog began to lift and I could see the lighthouse in the distance. Now, do I want to walk down there? If I do, it means an uphill walk on the way back and I’m not getting any younger, you know. I decided to go a little way to take some photos. Then a little further. Then the fog lifted completely and I went a little further. Yes, I ended up at the lighthouse, and glad I did. This is the place the Maori believe their dead come to so they can climb down the roots of the tree at the point to their afterlife. It’s a sacred place, and you can feel it. Oh, and the walk back up was actually pretty easy.

Next I was off to stay in the Duke of Marlborough Hotel in Russell. A historic hotel with the tag line “Refreshing Rascals and Reprobates Since 1827”. How could I resist?

Somewhere along the way someone mentioned I’d be taking the ferry to Russell, but looking at a map I found that it’s on the mainland so there must be a road, right? There is, but it didn’t take long to realize it wasn’t a good idea. All gravel, narrow, with warning signs not to drive a camper on it. I figured Avis would not be happy, so I backtracked and lined up for the ferry. There’s a photo in the gallery above, with Polly sitting on my dash checking out the other vehicles on the ferry. It was really easy-just drive on, stay in your car and they come around to take your payment.

Russell is a lovely town, and I loved the hotel. They treated me like royalty, and I had a suite with a balcony overlooking the bay. The Moreton Bay Fig Tree was right next to my balcony, and I think it must be at least 10 feet in diameter. Polly and I enjoyed sitting on the balcony with a glass of New Zealand wine and watching the sun set. There were some great little shops in the town, and in one I had a long conversation with the shopkeeper, who is an American expat who moved here for love. Always a great story.

For my final stay I chose a place with a short drive to the airport. I didn’t want to stay IN Auckland, but NEAR it. The Castaways Resort is south of the city on the coast, and it was a lot more than I was expecting. I thought I had booked a small studio room, but when I got there I was given a two-bedroom villa! The villas are very private, and the hotel takes you to your accommodation by golf cart. If I had known how beautiful the place was, I would have planned to stay longer! The one funny thing was how long it took me to connect the icon on their website, which looked like Wilson in the movie. Of course. Wilson, Castaway, Wilson, Castaway. I was two days into my stay before I made the connection.

On my final day I drove out of the resort property and stopped along the driveway to take a photo of the rabbit sitting in the field. It’s about six feet tall, from what I could estimate, and I’m pretty sure it’s a statue. Either that, or its name is Harvey. (Look it up if you don’t get the reference.)

New Zealand continues to be one of my favorite places in the world. I hope I’ll be able to return again. I still have to visit the far South end of the country, after all.

New Zealand-Finally!

Polly checking out the Auckland harbor.
Onetangi Beach
Polly assisting with gin tasting.
Waiheke Island Vineyards

Next on the agenda for this year of travel: a return to New Zealand. I visited two years ago and fell in love, vowing to return. I had done a day tour to Waiheke Island, known for its wines, and knew I wanted to spend more time there. So for the first few days “down under” I headed to an AirBnB on Onetangi Beach. It was ideally situated with three amazing restaurants down the street and a gorgeous beach right across the road.

A hop-on hop-off bus tour to the Eastern part of the island allowed me to see a part of the island I didn’t see the first time, and introduced a less populated area. I stopped at the Waiheke Distillery for lunch and a gin tasting, and the bonus was sitting out on the patio with an ocean view that would take your breath away. The lunch was great, and I tried a new kind of pizza: they fry the dough first and then put the toppings on-no oven. I can’t wait to try this when I finally have a kitchen again.

For those wanting practical information on this part of the trip, here you go! I flew into Auckland, and knowing I’d be jet lagged after flying from Fort Lauderdale to Atlanta to Los Angeles, and then 13 hours to New Zealand, I opted to book a SuperShuttle transfer and a hotel in Auckland right by the ferry dock. The M Social is literally across the street from the dock, and a great place to stay. Every room has a view of the harbor, and the staff was very kind in getting me into a room even though I arrived well before check-in time.

The next morning I took the ferry to Waiheke. There was plenty of room for my luggage, and the ferry runs hourly. I hired a taxi to take me to the Airbnb (expensive, but I didn’t know where I was going).

I booked the Eastern Waiheke hop-on hop-off bus online and was able to pick it up just a couple of blocks from my lodging. Besides the stop at the distillery, it gave me a good look at the island. When it was time to return to Auckland, I was able to grab the local bus just down the street and head right to the ferry terminal. The best part of that? When the bus picked me up the driver insisted on picking up my luggage and loading it for me, and then did the same at the ferry terminal. Wow, you have to love these wonderful Kiwis!

My Advice: Just Go!

Travel is the only thing you can buy that makes you richer.

My five-week solo adventure to New Zealand and Australia is over. Although I’ve done a lot of traveling, this was my longest trip, and my first international trip alone. I learned a few things along the way, and found that some of my travel skills were useful. I’ll share them with you, my trusty reader.

If you really want to see New Zealand, rent a car and don’t hurry. (And don’t forget to give back the keys when you return the car. That’s another-expensive-story.)

New Zealand highways are not like American Interstates. They are mostly two lanes, often winding,  with lots of traffic circles. Take your time. They’re fun to drive-if you are a driving nut like me.

Don’t be afraid to drive on the left. I worried about it, but found that after a day or two it came naturally. Just pay attention.

Be flexible. All the planning in the world can be stopped by unforeseen circumstances. Weather, accidents, unexpected closures…things happen. Take it in stride and make an alternative plan. Sometimes serendipity can make an even better itinerary.

ALWAYS give yourself time to take it all in. Just going somewhere and ticking the boxes as fast as you can is exhausting, and misses the whole point of travel.

Allow time in your itinerary to take advantage of an unplanned activity.

Give yourself time in each place. My ideal is at least three days in one spot. That allows time to get to know an area, and maybe do a couple of day excursions or activities. 

Allow time to relax. In the middle of my three-week trip, I spent five days on the seacoast. For the most part I just sat and looked at the ocean. It was just the break I needed.

Talk to people. Whether locals or fellow travelers, you may get suggestions for your trip, learn something about the area, or just find something to laugh about. 

Experience the culture. Learn a little history, get to know what life is like there, try food and drink you’ve never had before. If you’re just going to collect photos of the tourist sites, you might as well stay home and watch a documentary of it.

New Zealand’s North Island

Arriving on the North Island in Wellington after a ferry ride from Picton, the weather was bad but the ferry handled it just fine. I even treated myself to a glass of bubbly with a sandwich from the on-board café. The trip went quickly thanks to a chat with a local returning from a visit with her parents. It was pouring rain in Wellington, and taxis were scarce. After waiting for a half hour, I called an Uber to take me to the Avis office. All  car rentals have been moved off the harbor due to construction, and that created an amusing interlude. The Uber driver picked me up, looked at his navigation, and informed me we were AT the car rental. No, it moved downtown, I said. Well, the nav system says you’re there, he said. He finally took the address I had been given and put it into his phone, and off we went to the correct location. I just paid him in cash. 

I’m not a fan of big cities, so I headed right out of Wellington in the rain, white knuckles and all. My destination was a vacation rental in Paraparaumu, about an hour north on the coast. This was my mid-travel break, and I spent five days in a lovely apartment with a stunning view of the ocean. Despite many horror stories about vacation rental disasters, I’ve been fortunate to find lovely accommodations all over the world. My recommendation is to always read the fine print, definitely read the reviews (and evaluate whether they sound like real people), look closely at the photos, and if the price sounds too good to be true, it probably is!  

In this case, I found a real gem. My landlady lived upstairs and was friendly and helpful. We even walked her dog on the beach together.  After being on the road for a couple of weeks, this was just the relaxing interlude I needed. Long walks on the beach, a little exploring, a trip to a bird sanctuary island, and one day trip over the mountains to wine country.

Kapiti Island is a bird sanctuary, and visits to the island are limited and controlled. It lies just across the bay from Paraparaumu, a fifteen-minute boat trip.  I booked a day tour to the island well in advance, and learned it fills up in the warmer months. I wanted to be able to stay in their overnight accommodations, but they were all booked far ahead of time. Our guide was a descendant of the early Maori settlers, and he was interesting and informative. I did a hike with others in our group, and then they provided a delicious lunch. I highly recommend this excursion, especially if you’re a bird lover. If you’re hoping to see the national symbol, a kiwi, be advised that they are nocturnal and hide in burrows during the day. Why the locals chose a symbol that most people will never see, I have no idea.

A drive over the mountain to the Martinborough wine country was again one I wouldn’t recommend to a nervous driver, but I loved it! Narrow winding roads with spectacular views. The wine country was not as large or varied as the Marlborough region on the South Island. If you had to choose just one, I’d opt for the South Island. I visited Greytown, which is an early Victorian village that is now filled with shops, antiques, and cafes along the main street.

I visited a WWII Marine war memorial that was recommended by my host. New Zealand was key to the Pacific war effort, and this area was the site of a large camp used for training, supply, and respite for the fighting Marines-the beaches were perfect for assault training.

Flexibility being my mantra for this trip, I decided to skip going back to Wellington and taking the train North. A conversation with a local had me keeping my rental car for the duration and heading to Lake Taupo to take advantage of the scenery and an afternoon at Wairakei Hot Springs, which is somewhat less touristy and very relaxing. 

The next day I drove to Otorohango, my jumping off spot for the Waimoto Caves. On the way I stopped at Haku Falls-not spectacular, but a nice side trip. I also stopped at Waireki Thermal Valley, which gives a good look at the continuing volcanic activity in New Zealand. I hiked down to the bottom of the valley and took the bus back up. I found it to be somewhat like Yellowstone, but without the tourist crowds. Or bison. I had a conversation with a young Israeli man who was traveling in the opposite direction. We compared notes and exchanged recommendations on things to see.

The following day I went to the Waimoto Glowworm Caves in Orotanga. This was an awe-inspiring excursion into a cave, with a short walk and then a boat ride. The glowworms inhabit the roof of the cave, and in the darkness seem like thousands of tiny stars. I think this was a must-see.

A Visit to the Shire!

Off to Matamata to get ready for my visit to Hobbiton. The drive was shorter than I thought, and I arrived midday. I was able to check into my motel, which was about a mile outside of the village. The road tended to be busy and noisy, so I would recommend staying in the village.

I had fortunately booked a dinner tour well in advance-it was sold out for days. Arriving at The Shire’s Rest, I found a gift shop and café, as well as plenty of parking and restrooms. Hobbiton in located on a sheep farm, so we were taken in on short bus ride. We were given a delightful tour of the entire movie set (which looks like a real Hobbit Village) and then treated to an amazing dinner at the Green Dragon Inn, served family style.

Our guides were informative and enthusiastic, allowing plenty of time to explore. The dinner, while expensive, meant we had the place to ourselves. It was dark after dinner, and we were given lanterns and taken back to the green for a lovely closing to an amazing tour. Even if you are not a rabid Lord of the Rings or Hobbit fan, this tour was well worth it. 

My last stop was three days in Auckland. I really hate driving in big cities, even though I used to do it all the time. I’ve lost my enthusiasm for freeways. I booked a room at the Andelin Guest House in Devonport, across the bay from the main city. Once I got there, I parked my car and didn’t move it until I drove to the airport. It was walking distance to the ferry port and the main street of town, filled with restaurants and shops. My host recommended a couple of restaurants, and he was right about both!

I booked a wine tour on Waiheke Island for the next day. The ferry from Auckland stops at Devonport and then goes on to Waiheke. My tour was a small group of eleven, and we had a great day. On the way back I had a mishap with the ferry. The only scheduled to stop at Devonport is at 4 pm, and there was a long line to get on. The line was stopped once they reached capacity, and I missed it. That meant I had to take the ferry to Auckland and then back to Devonport. If I were to do it again, I would stay on Waiheke and have a nice leisurely dinner, do a little shopping, and then return.

On my last day I took the ferry to Auckland to explore the city. I found that the waterfront area isn’t as nicely developed as the of Sydney, although they are working on it. I decided to take the tour of the Weta Workshop, which is a company that creates movie illusions: creatures, makeup, buildings, etc. It was a fun and interesting to see the development of movie magic. 

So that’s it. After five weeks of travel, I headed to the airport, braving the holiday travel in Auckland. Note to self: NEVER forget to turn in the keys to your rental car.

New Zealand’s South Island

My flight to Christchurch was easy, although I did learn one thing: New Zealand Air will not allow you to put your bag under the seat in front of you if you are in an exit row. I was told after I was seated, which meant I didn’t have access to iPad or headphones since I was also in the window seat. I entertained myself by using their headphones and watching a movie.

To make my life easier, I took SuperShuttle to the hotel rather than deal with luggage and a bus just to save a few dollars. I was at the Christchurch City Hotel, which is a new hotel in the center of the city. It was a great location, since the tourist trolley was right around the corner, along with a wide variety of shopping and restaurants. And the staff was great. Their top floor bar and restaurant is a hidden gem-good food and drink in a gorgeous setting.

Christchurch is a city in transition, still recovering from the devastating series of earthquakes in 2010 and 2011. The central business district is a combination of older historic buildings, new construction to replace destroyed buildings, and more than a few empty lots where buildings once stood. The “cardboard cathedral” is the church that was badly damaged in the quakes-it’s truly a cardboard cathedral, since the front of it is a temporary façade painted to look like the original cathedral.

The “Cardboard Cathedral” under construction.
The Wizard of Christchurch: A local Character
How to hide an empty lot; this is an optical illusion!

I took the Kiwi Rail train trip to Greymouth and back to see more of that area of the South Island. It wasn’t what I hoped for. I was advised their premier seating wasn’t really necessary, so I booked the regular class. Big mistake. On the way West I was seated in front of a family of ten who were apparently unaware that there were other passengers on the train. They spent the entire trip chattering loudly, so I couldn’t hear the narration, or even the PA announcements. Fortunately, they were staying in Greymouth, so the ride back to Christchurch was much quieter. To make the trip even more pleasant, it stopped raining so I could see the scenery! If I return, this is one excursion I wouldn’t do again.

Because I brought clothing for the wedding and festivities in Australia, I thought I might ship some things home, along with some gifts I wanted to buy. Don’t plan on doing that! When I checked I learned that the cost to ship to the US for a small package of about 5 pounds was nearly $200. I decided to just suck it up and stuff my suitcase.

From Christchurch I flew to Nelson, at the far North of the South Island. This was a commuter flight, and I found that Kiwis are not at all as fussy as the American TSA. Once I presented my passport to check my bag, I did not have to provide my ID again, and there was NO security check. The flight was a quick hour, and it gave me an opportunity to see the landscape from the air.

Then it was time to learn to drive on the left side of the road. This was a first for me, and I’ve been fretting about it for months. I picked up my Avis car at the Nelson airport, and took some time to get familiar with it before I roared off into infinity and beyond. I used my phone to navigate, and for my next trip I’m going to make sure I have some sort of holder so I don’t lose it on the floor. Driving on the left really wasn’t all that difficult, as long as I paid attention to what I was doing at the corners and the traffic circles. I did have a tendency to signal a turn with my windshield wipers, however.

I drove to Kaikura, a 3 ½ hour drive. I could have just driven from Christchurch in less time than flying and driving, but I added the Kaikura stop late in the game. The first part of the trip was on narrow mountain roads, so I wouldn’t recommend it to a nervous driver. I love those kinds of roads, and really enjoyed the drive. The latter part of the trip was along the coast, which gave me a look at some stunning scenery.

In Kaikura I stayed at The White Morph, very close to my excursion for the next day, and with a stunning view of a wall. In the morning I went to the Dolphin Encounter and checked in early. They have a nice café there, so I was able to get breakfast before I was called to get my wetsuit and gear needed for my swim with the dolphins. They transported us to the dock, and after a 20-minute ride out to the area where we found the dolphins, we were ready to get in the water. I can only say that this was an experience I’ll never forget. I did swim with sting rays in the Carribbean, and there were maybe ten or fifteen sting rays in the area. With the dolphins, there was something like 600 animals, all curious and ready to play. As soon as we entered the water they headed right for us, swimming around us and jumping out of the water. We stayed in the area about an hour, with the dolphins moving away, coming back, jumping and somersaulting, and generally having a good time.

Next was the Marlborough wine area, staying at the Cork and Keg in Blenheim. This is a small pub with just three little motel rooms, but the staff was wonderful and the room was just what I needed. It was nice to just walk across the parking lot for dinner, being able to have a drink since I didn’t have to drive. The pub also has their own cast of characters, so I had a nice chat both nights with the locals. 

Wine tasting was on the agenda, although I had to limit what I actually drank since I drove. I visited the No.1 sparkling wine tasting room, since they are recommended for how they ferment their wines. I had a little extra time before my appointment, so I also stopped at the Gin Shack. They were very friendly also, and gave me an overview of their distilling methods and the botanicals they use. Then I had an appointment at Fromm vineyard. I had met the vintner at a wine tasting back in the states, and he invited me to visit. They did a very nice personal tour and wine tasting for me, which made me feel pretty special. The entire Marlborough wine country is beautiful, and the array of vineyards is impressive. There are almost 70,000 acres of vineyards, by far the largest growing region in the country.

I finished my tour of the South Island with a drive to Picton, where I caught the ferry to the North Island. Finding the rental car return was a challenge, since the ferry landing is being upgraded. Note: you can take a rental car from one island to the other. I dropped my car and picked up another in Wellington. It would have been much easier to just keep the car, although I’m not sure what the extra cost would be.

Trip Planning. Yay!

Could it be?

In the past few days I came across an article saying that according to research, planning a trip brings more pleasure than the actual vacation itself. Apparently anticipation releases more endorphins than being on that beach, that mountain, that cruise ship. I sort of get it: you dream of sitting on a sun sundrenched beach with a mai-tai, but the reality also brings sand fleas, clouds, and crowds. Well, I’m going to put that information to a test.

I’m about to depart on a five-week trip to Australia and New Zealand. Alone. Mostly. It all started when a friend and former coworker informed me she was moving to Australia to be with the gentleman she has been traveling with the past few years. She asked if I had a list of the dates for countries we visited together on a cruise from Rome to Dubai. She needed the dates for her application for a permanent visa in Australia. Now THAT was an epic trip. And yes, I had all the dates in my diary. I sent the information, and jokingly said I was going to have to come visit. Yes, she replied, we do have a guest room. You should come. This was a short time after I lost my husband, and planning a trip was just the distraction I needed, so I took her up on her offer.

I quickly realized that if I was going to sit on a plane for 15 hours, I was going to make the most of it. I told another friend, an inveterate traveler, that I was planning to take three weeks and go to New Zealand also. She suggested three months! That wasn’t in the cards, so I compromised and expanded the trip to five and a half weeks. As I was working in Alaska most of the summer, I was doing my research and planning whenever I had a bit of free time. I also ended up revising my itinerary several times as I met some Kiwis here and there-a wine rep doing a tasting at our favorite hangout, three gentlemen on vacation in Denali, Alaska, a lady who also loves to travel.

So I’m heading to Australia, first to attend my friend’s wedding and celebrate with some of my former coworkers from Alaska. Then on to New Zealand. Planning has been a challenge: six flights, three trains, two rental cars, and a ferry! Not to mention hotels, motels, and vacation rentals. My mantra will be: Take a deep breath. Things will go wrong. Go with the flow and take advantage of the unplanned joys.

Oh, and the photo shows some books of Scotland and Ireland. That’s next. And then…Hungary, Austria and Germany?