Cruising – Travels with Billie

Cruising the Danube, Part 2

First, allow me to apologize to my more loyal readers for how long it has taken me to release this and the posts that will follow. It’s been years since I’ve spent a summer at home in Montana, other than the time after my husband got sick and most of my days were spent avoiding Covid and caring for him. I’ve taken the time this summer to truly enjoy the Big Sky country where I was born, and sitting at my computer wasn’t on the agenda!

After two nights aboard ship in Budapest, we woke to find ourselves cruising the Danube. First, let me advise you: the famous song notwithstanding, the Danube is not blue. I’d call it a brownish green. But hey, if you want to write a romantic waltz, you make the river blue. It’s easy to overlook the color when you are looking at vistas you’ve dreamed about for years.

We went through our first set of locks, and of course the mechanically curious in our party had to rush up to the top deck to watch the entire operation. I was more interested in breakfast.

Bratislava, Slovakia

Our first port was Bratislava, and we took a walking tour of the city. Our tour guide Richard had spent a year in Oregon so he spoke excellent English. This was our first example of the advantage of river cruising: you are often able to dock right in the main part of the city or town. We met our guide as we went ashore and walked with him through the historic old town area. It’s a vibrant neighborhood filled with both history and modern day delights like pastries…and beer! We again ran into our old friend Mozart, and experienced what was left of the original walls of the city. Next to the wall and St. Martin’s Cathedral, there was a monument to commemorate the Jewish Temple that was destroyed by the communists

At the end of our walking tour our guide gave us the option of exploring on our own, and carefully explained how to get back to our ship. We spent a couple lovely hours wandering the area and of course sampling the excellent local beer.

Vienna, Austria

The next stop was Vienna, where we again did a walking tour of the old town. Unlike Bratislava, Vienna is a very large city, which meant we were transported to the city center by motor coach. While I prefer small towns and villages, Vienna is a lovely city with a long history and beautiful architecture.

There was a market going on next to the church that seemed much like the traditional Christmas markets of Europe. The merchants were friendly and I spent most of my time chatting. Thank heaven most Europeans know English, since I’m embarrassingly poor at languages. I bought some gifts, and got into a conversation with a merchant who had funny pins. After I purchased one for a friend and another for myself, I spotted the “It is what it is” pin, telling him that was my mantra when I was growing up. So he gave it to me. Because of that chat, I’ll always think of Vienna and that gentleman every time I look at my pin.

Of course, if you go to Vienna you have to go to a concert. Our whole group went off to a performance that included traditional Austrian music, a piece by Mozart (naturally), and a delightful bit of opera performed by two excellent singers who were also fun performers.

I ended the evening with a stroll on the top deck of the boat, capturing a view of a nearby church. Farewell, Vienna.

Wachau Valley

Cruising the Wachau Valley in Austria is one of the highlights of a Danube cruise. It’s filled with castles, vineyards, and lovely towns. There’s something interesting in every one of the 18 miles along this stretch of the Danube. All those castles you see in the advertisements? Here they are.

Melk, Austria

Welcome to the nicest little town you never heard of. Well, I never heard of, anyway. After the big city vibe of Vienna, this was more my speed.

The town is home to the 1000 year old Benedictine Melk Abbey. The abbey is in a commanding location on a hill overlooking the town and the Danube. We were taken up the (fairly steep) hill in a bus and given a guided tour of the abbey. The interior is stunning, with a breathtaking library and an imposing long marble hallway. Unfortunately, photos are not allowed inside the abbey, or I’d be loading up this post with pictures! The abbey has continued as a school, today with about 900 students of both sexes attending.

I chose to walk down the hill back to our boat, giving me an opportunity to wander through the town. Another delightful conversation with a shopkeeper at “The Cat’s House.” She assured me the only reason she kept the business going was because the cat expected to be fed and housed. I told her the story of the long service of the mayor of Talkeetna, Alaska, who was a cat. She loved the story and wrote down the name of Talkeetna so she could look it up online. The shop was filled with kitty-related items, and I came home with the perfect sign.

In the evening I was given a late birthday gift from my cousins: a bottle of gin from the Melk Abbey.

Linz, Austria

Our next port was Linz, Austria. While some of our group hied off to learn to make Linzer Torte, I opted to take a longer trip to Cesky Krumlov in the Czech Republic. It’s a medieval village with about 13,00o residents and again that many tourists.

The town exists thanks to the castle complex, which was started around 1250 and added to over the centuries by the many varied owners. Today the castle complex is something like 17 acres, and seems to go on forever. Unlike many castles of the era, this one was guarded not by a moat, but by bears. There are a few remaining bears (I counted three) but I was told that when these bears die they will not be replaced. I’m glad to hear that-how boring to live your life in a stone moat that gets so hot in the summer!

One of the connecting walkways of the castle.

The town and castle are a World Heritage site, and the area has been preserved as it was in the Middle Ages. Cobblestones and all. I’m so glad I didn’t live in the Middle Ages. I’m beginning to really dislike cobblestones! They are pretty, but treacherous to walk on.

My tour included lunch in Mastal Restaurant, which is in a centuries-old building that was originally a stable. “Mastal” is “stable” in Czech. The setting was delightful, and the food was great. So was the wine! I was seated at a table with several others on our tour, and we had a good time sampling the dishes and sharing our experiences from the trip.

Passau, Germany

Our last port was Passau. We spent the day there, and then departed from the ship the next morning. We did a walking tour of the town with an amusing guide who had a good amount of “attitude” about her. I love a guide who tells it “like it is” rather than sounding like a tourism brochure.

I found the architecture amazing, if a little over the top at times. It’s interesting that the town has suffered many floods, but still looks lovely today.

St. Stephen’s Cathedral

In the evening our group signed up for a traditional German dinner with music. It turned out we were the only people to sign up, so we had the evening all to ourselves. Our guide turned out to be the same woman who was our guide earlier that day, so we knew we would have a good time. Especially after she made sure we all had a beer in front of us immediately.

With such a small group, we had one musician instead of a whole band, and that turned out to be a lucky event. He sat with us, ate with us, and talked about his music and his instrument. He played his Chemnitzer concertina, which he had made to his specifications. It’s similar to an accordion, but the keys are different. He also had some fun wooden clackers that we got to use to keep time with his songs. He even explained his traditional German clothing.

What a lovely evening to finish our river cruise.

The next morning we were all packed and headed for the train station-Anna and me to head to Frankfurt, and the rest of our group to Munich and more beer. The train ride is a post of its own.

Exploring Singapore Before Your Flight

Disembarking our ship in Singapore, I was facing a full day before my late evening flight. My friend Judy and I decided to do what I’ve done many times in the past: take an excursion that would end up dropping us at the airport in the afternoon. When I booked the excursion, however, I hadn’t counted on the heat and humidity. We did have a nice tour, although it was again a day of ending up with clothing wet from perspiration. Not the most comfortable way to begin a 22 hour trip; I’m heading to Malta from here. If you’re anywhere near as old as I am, you probably remember the TV program “Sweating to the Oldies” with Richard Simmons. Well, this was sweating WITH the oldies (fellow passengers) from my cruise.

Let me advise you from the start: the Singapore airport is a destination in itself. Had I realized this before (I arrived in Singapore at midnight and didn’t take much time to look around) I would have just gone straight to the airport. More about that later.

Our first stop was the National Orchid Garden, which, of course, was nearly all outside in the heat. The garden is big, with many winding paths. Since it is an easy place to get lost and we had limited time, our guide offered to take us through if we wished. I’m glad we stayed with him, since his knowledge of the various orchids made it more interesting. There was one place in the garden that was my favorite: the cool room. Have I mentioned that it’s hot in Singapore?

These orchids made me smile: don’t they look like they are smiling back?

Our next stop took us to Chinatown, which was great since we missed it when we were there before the cruise. We were given time to have lunch in the hawker mall, which was a maze of dozens of food vendors, all delicious. With the Chinese New Year approaching, the area was awash in red decorations and people making purchases for the coming holiday. After our lunch I went to explore the temple nearby.

We then headed to the Bay for a river cruise. We made a stop at Raffles, which was essentially an opportunity to peruse their (very expensive) gift shop. Then down to the river. It was a different perspective on the area we have visited before, with another look at the Merlion from the water. What I found the most interesting were the historic former warehouses along the waterfront. Built mostly by Chinese merchants, they were situated on the river before it was made into a bay.We were told the size of the building reflected the wealth of that particular merchant. Today they are restored buildings with shops and restaurants.

The contrast between the former warehouses and the skyscrapers show the history of Singapore’s growth.

We were finally off to the airport, and relieved that we would be in air conditioning again. When I had a long wait in the Buenos Aires airport, I got into a conversation with a fellow traveler who told me about the Singapore airport. He encouraged me to set aside some time to explore when I flew there. I’m so glad he did.

When we arrived a the airport I learned that the airline I was flying, Emirates, would allow me to check my bags up to 24 hours ahead of time. Not all airlines do this, but it’s a nice perk. If that isn’t possible, there’s a luggage storage desk right next to the early luggage drop. I checked my bags and friend Judy went to check in to her hotel room, which was also in the airport. Then we enjoyed a refreshment break at one of the many little cafes, and wandered through the gigantic shopping mall attached to the airport. And there in the middle of the mall is a lovely green space with a waterfall.

And there’s even a Disney-style ride!

All in all, this trip to Singapore and the cruise has been a great adventure. Next I’m off to Malta to hang out by the Mediterranean for a month.

Exploring Ayutthaya: A Day in Thailand’s Ancient Capital

The final port of call on our cruise was Leam Chabang, near Bangkok. We opted to take an excursion to the ancient city of Ayutthaya, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. While today it is a modern city, the entire area is dotted with ancient temples.

First, though, we made a stop at the Bang Pa-In Summer Palace. On the long drive north, our guide schooled us in the history of the Rama line of Thai kings…and made it interesting!

The palace grounds are quite large, with man-made lakes, monuments, elephant topiary, and various buildings used for the King’s palace, visiting dignitaries, ceremonies, and one small gingerbread house that was used by the king to get away from everyone. Our guide told us that when the king went to that little house, no one was allowed in: no servants, no family, no officials. This was his place for “me time.”

After a stop for another delicious Thai luncheon at Kantary Ayutthaya, we were off to visit the temples. A note about the meals we had in Thailand: I love Thai food. Interestingly enough, my favorite Thai restaurants are in Alaska-go figure. There’s a Thai food truck that operates in the summer near a hotel just South of the entrance to Denali National Park, and I always make it a point to visit whenever I’m in the area as I lead tours. But I always wondered just how authentic the food really was. Two years ago I had a Thai couple who told me they approved of the food from the truck, which I took as a good sign. I now know that the Thai food in Alaska is absolutely authentic. And yummy!

I couldn’t resist a photo of another unique vehicle for tourists. There are benches in the back and you just hang on for the drive!

Next we were off to visit the whole reason we took this tour: the ancient temples. The first stop was at Wat Yai Chaya Mongkoi (Wat meaning temple.) As soon as we neared the temple grounds, my friend and I said at the same time, “THIS is what we came to Thailand for.” Well, that and the food.

There was again the opportunity to climb up to view the complex from the main temple, and I again decided to be smart and not go there. I did climb a few steps, but with uneven and ancient bricks, no handrails, and soaring temperatures, we both decided a few steps was plenty. Oh, to be twenty again and able to scramble up to the top! The entire area was amazing, however, and there is a feeling of serenity about it, even with the many visitors.

Our next stop was Wat Maha That. This temple complex was even older than the first, and our guide explained how to tell the difference based on how the towers were constructed. The older ones look like corncobs! By this time the heat was getting brutal, and the park provided umbrellas to help keep the sun from beating on our heads.

The Buddha above is the only one in the complex that is complete. When the area was invaded by the Burmese they destroyed the many images of the Buddha, and when the Thai people tried to restore their temple the found most of the Buddhas had been destroyed and the heads smashed. The Buddha above was reassembled from the pieces.

The only other Buddha head that survived has become a symbol of the temple: it became encased in the roots of the tree above.

The final stop on our tour was at Wat Phra Is Sanpet, the oldest of the three sites we visited, and there are no photos to show you. It was truly so hot that several of us on the tour were becoming the worse for wear. After climbing around and up and down ancient steps and being literally drenched in perspiration, I was beginning to feel faint. Several of us on the tour opted to stay on the bus and look from afar. Hailing from Montana and Alaska, I just don’t have the ability to function in the heat and humidity. My usual coping mechanism of taking it slow and not going out in the hottest part of the day just doesn’t work on a sightseeing excursion!

Penang, Malaysia

Penang was the one port we decided to explore on our own. The ship docked right next to the island’s capital, George Town. Since it was just a short stroll into town we set off on our own. Our first challenge was to get past the dozens of taxi promoters offering to drive us around the area. Once we got out of the port area we thought we were safe, but we continued to run into hawkers for several blocks!

We found the town decorated with red everywhere in preparation for the coming celebration of the Chinese New Year. We just wandered wherever our fancy took us, which was fairly successful. We spent some time in the Little India area, wandered into a shop that made custom notebooks, and found a shop that sold fabrics, saris, and other clothing.

Pretty fancy entrance for a fabric store!

I promised to bring back Thai silk fabrics to my crafty friends at home, and really hit the jackpot here. They had silks and cottons in so many gorgeous colors I wanted to take them all home.

We ran across some of our fellow cruisers taking advantage of the local transportation option. After walking around in the extreme heat I was a little jealous, but not enough to climb aboard.

We finished our day with a walk around a park and along the waterfront. We also took a little time to view some of the buildings showing the influence of the colonial era.

I have to admit that there was much more to see in Penang, but the heat and humidity were beginning to make it hard to keep walking around. By the time we returned to the ship my friend and I were both ready for a cold drink and a shower!

Phuket, Thailand

We continued to sail North in the Malacca Strait to the island of Phuket. I’m going to admit my ignorance of the entire area: I didn’t know Phuket was an island. For that matter, I didn’t know Lankawi was an island either!

We again took a ship’s excursion by speedboat into Phang Nga Bay. This area contains the Ao Phang Ngo Marine National Park, with dozens of limestone islands filled with caves and rock formations.

If you look closely you’ll see a rope hanging down from one of the rocks on the underside of this island. Our guide explained that fishermen come out and use these ropes to catch fish.

The next destination was “James Bond Island,” which was used as a location for the “The Man with the Golden Gun.” I now know for sure that they didn’t really blow up the island in the end. Apparently the James Bond franchise is still popular, judging by the number of people flocking to this island. After shedding our shoes and jumping into the (shallow) water to walk to the shore, I stood there with my shoes in my hand and looked around the small beach surrounded by rocky cliffs, wondering what the attraction was. We were given nearly an hour to explore what looked to me like nothing more than a tiny beach. I saw a few people walking up some stairs in the rocks, and decided to find out where they led. First I had to get my shoes back on my damp feet, sand and all.

I gingerly started up the stairs, wondering where they went. A little higher, a little more, and around a corner was a view of the pinnacle rock that was so visible in the movie.

I continued along the stairway, and coming around a corner discovered we were not alone! The stairs led into a larger open area with another beach access for more boats. And as always, enterprising locals were taking advantage of the number of tourists coming to pay homage to 007.

Our next stop was Koh Panyee, a floating fishing village. This was advertised as an opportunity to meet the locals, see the village, and browse the shops. We were not impressed. The village is a confusing warren of buildings on pilings, and our guide warned us to stay close to him so we didn’t get lost. It became a march through narrow walkways with nearly every home having an assortment of wares that were clearly of the “Made in China” type. Stopping to purchase anything was nearly impossible, as our guide was on the move. We were hoping for local crafts and wares, but it was t-shirts and toys and keychains. The town was interesting, but has been converted into a tourist trap.

After returning to the island of Phuket, we were treated to lunch in a lovely Thai restaurant. The food was just what I had been looking forward to. Authentic Thai food! Yay! I was actually delighted to find that my favorite food truck in Alaska truly was Thai food on a level with the food in Thailand. The restaurant in Thailand was a lot fancier than the food truck, though. I spent some of our allotted time there wandering around the property taking photos of the beautiful facility.

Langkawi, Malaysia

Our second Malaysia port was Langkawi, where my friend and I took a ship’s excursion called the Geopark Day Cruise. I should note that I usually prefer to do my port visits on my own, but since I’ve never been to this area and don’t know the language or the challenges we might hit, we both preferred to take the ship tours for most of the ports. The last thing we wanted was to find ourselves unable to get back to the ship in time and stranded in the port.

Anyway, off we went on the Geopark Day Cruise. Now, with a title like that and the mention of dolphins and flying fish, we were expecting some commentary on the natural environment. Not so much. This was basically a booze cruise. It was fun, but certainly not what we expected. As soon as we left port the bar was open. On the way to the island where we were to have lunch, the crew put out a net behind the boat and allowed passengers to sit in the water and enjoy the view. I took one look and decided “NO.” I could just see myself struggling back up the net into the boat like a beached whale, needing the crew and passengers to drag me aboard. I just sipped my mango juice and enjoyed the view.

We stopped at a small island and were treated to a nice lunch at the edge of the jungle, with tables and chairs and wine. All the necessities of life. It put me in mind of the Jurassic Park movie where the family is having a fancy lunch on the beach and the young girl encounters some little dinosaurs. We saw no dinosaurs. But we DID see a bunch of wild boars! They smelled the barbecue and came around hoping for leftovers.

After lunch we were given time to enjoy the beach (having been advised beforehand to wear our swimsuits), and I went into the water with everyone else. I’d forgotten how much fun the ocean is to hang around in. I’d also forgotten how fast I burn, and how careful I should be about getting sunscreen everywhere. I did put on sunscreen, but I did it before I took off my shirt and ended up quite red on my shoulders.

My friend Judy and a couple of others we met on the tour were hanging around in the water, and they said they were getting a tingling feeling and wondered was it was. I felt nothing, but all three of them said they felt it. A little later the gentleman came over to us with a large leaf and something that looked like gel sitting in it. He had captured the creature; it turns out they were feeling the tentacles of a jellyfish. Apparently these aren’t terribly poisonous, but they did have enough of a sting to make my friends feel the tingling. Fortunately, it didn’t leave a mark!

Not many photos for the day, since this was mostly scenic cruising, and I didn’t want to take my phone ashore and get it wet. So you’ll have to settle for a quick shot of our cruise ship, barely visible between the islands.

Exploring Kuala Lumpur: A First-Time Cruise Experience

Discover the dynamic allure of Kuala Lumpur, where skyscrapers overshadow ancient temples. Experience the fervor of Thaipusam, and savor the artistry of Royal Selangor Pewter. Your journey just begins!

Our twelve day cruise on the Diamond Princess started with a flurry of activity. We hit three ports on the first three days! Since we did excursions in all three ports, I’ll do separate posts for each.

First up was Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. This being my first foray to Southeast Asia, I had some expectations to overcome. Jungle, maybe rice paddies, exotic temples, monkeys? Kuala Lumpur disabused me of that idea immediately. Busy city, skyscrapers, and traffic! Somehow the Petronas Towers never lodged in my brain.

I took a tour that led me to a religious site, a modern factory with historical roots, and a museum, with a quick stop to see the Petronas towers.

We first headed to the Batu Caves, a limestone complex outside the city that is a major Hindu worship spot. It turned out that we were going there the day before the Thaipusam festival that takes place on the full moon of February. Worshipers make a pilgrimage to the caves, climbing 272 steps and usually carrying a pot on their head for offerings or a heavy, elaborate structure decorated with flowers and gold. I rethought my original idea of climbing the steps for two reasons: first, there were hundreds of pilgrims crowding the steps, and it would be nearly impossible to turn around if I found it to be too hard. Second, I realized the heat and humidity was going to be a big factor, both for this stop and the entire rest of the trip. After all, I live in Montana and work in Alaska in the summer. That day it was 88 degrees with 90% humidity.

I was relieved when we headed off to the Royal Selangor Pewter factory. It was air conditioned! I found the demonstration interesting-there were three women demonstrating different facets of the artistry that goes into their pewter products. And the products, everything from jewelry to dishes to elaborate art pieces, were beautiful. Yes, there was a gift shop. Of course. And yes, I succumbed.

We had a great lunch in a restaurant on the 54th floor of a skyscraper. I was determined to try something new at every opportunity, and here it was fruit. Check out the photo of Polly checking out the unfamiliar fruit. It turned out to be delicious, and I’m so glad a fellow traveler showed me how to eat it.

The last stop was the National Museum. By that time I was flagging from the heat, and only made it through half the museum before giving up and looking for a cool place to sit.

Ushuaia, Argentina

One more port at the farthest South city in the world before heading to Antarctica.

The port has grown since my last visit-or maybe it just seemed like a sleepy city before because it was Christmas Day. I took a tour called Flavors at the End of the World, and it was great. We walked up to the main shopping area and made stops at a wine shop for a wine tasting and individual charcuterie plates, a restaurant with a sampling of local foods, and a chocolate shop with excellent chocolates.

Ushuaia was originally a town that held a prison that made certain escape wasn’t an option. They have a sense of humor about it, shown by the cops chasing the escapee who is trying to climb out of the window above.

By the way, there is a Hard Rock Cafe in town. American commerce infiltrates everywhere.

I did a little shopping ( of COURSE I need a hat and a t-shirt that brags about Antarctica) and on the way back to the ship discovered a local crafts market. Always attracted to shiny things-I must be part raven-I ended up buying a beautiful ring from the man who created it. He even resized it for me while I waited. He and his wife were so gracious, and we managed to communicate with a translation app despite not sharing a common language. No matter where I go in the world, I always seem to find kindness.

Punta Arenas, Argentina

Discover Punta Arenas: From penguin-filled adventures to a charming Pisco Sour experience.

The first port for our cruise was Punta Arenas, Chile.

I didn’t do an excursion for this port. My last visit was nine years ago, when I took a ferry to Magdalena Island, which is a nesting ground for penguins. It was such a memorable experience, and I got so many amazing photos, that I decided it couldn’t be topped. Instead, I took the ship’s tender shuttle to town and explored.

I had a delicious lunch in a hotel bar , with a glass ceiling and lots of plants. Not to mention a handsome waiter who had a great sense of humor. It was a good opportunity to have a Pisco Sour, a traditional Chilean drink. There were two versions of the drink on the menu, one simply a Pisco Sour, the other a Chilean Pisco Sour. I asked the waiter what the difference was, besides the higher price for the latter. He assured me the Chilean version, made from Chilean alcohol, was much better. 😃

A stroll around the city took me to a lovely park (above) that despite the chilly wind was a pleasant visit.

The visit to the park gave me the opportunity to touch the toe of the statue that is supposed to bring good luck and a return to Punta Arenas in the future. You’ll notice his toe is pretty shiny!

The wind was very strong, making it hard to maintain my balance on the pier as we waited to board the tender shuttle back to the ship. The ride was pretty exciting, too!

Cruising Solo

I’ve had questions about my experience with solo cruising, so I thought I’d talk about how this one went. It’s been six years since the last cruise-not counting the three cruises I did as a Tour Director. That was work, and I had a built-in group to keep me busy. This was also my first time cruising alone. So – how did it go?

Rule number one: if you want to get to know people you need to get out of your cabin. Then you have to talk to people! My first step was to sign up for traditional dining and ask to be seated at a table with a group. Since you see the same people every night, you get to know them over the course of the cruise. Since this was two back-to-back cruises, I was seated with two different groups. In both cases, by the end of the first week we were getting along like old friends.

Sometimes all it takes is a generic question like: “Where are you from?” In my case, being from Montana seemed to generate a lot of interest. People either want to talk about their visit there, or how they want to visit there. In one instance, I was on a bus in Bilbao and when I told the woman sitting next to me where I was from. Immediately four people across the aisle let me know that they were from a town just a few miles from where I live. Small world.

I also participated in a couple of group activities. There is always something to do, whether it’s a crafting group, trivia, dance lessons, or games. I attended a meeting of nomads, and it was great to hear how others are choosing a lifestyle of travel. Doing more activities probably would have been a good idea, but after a long summer of leading group tours I was ready for a little alone time. I’m promising myself that on the next cruise I’ll get more involved.

Now, if you’re thinking about taking a cruise on your own, I would suggest trying a shorter cruise. On these long cruises, I found that most cruisers were couples. Smaller ships are also more conducive to getting to know your cruise mates. When you’re on a ship with 3000 or more passengers, running across the same person again gets a lot harder.

My next three cruises are with friends, so I’ll have built-in companionship. But I still plan to get to know other cruisers. One warning, though. As you meet people who do a lot of traveling, conversation naturally leads to places they have been. The next thing you know, you have another place to add to your bucket list!