The final itinerary for my year-long adventure was a guided group tour of Ireland. This was a change in how I usually travel. While I’ve led dozens of group tours, this would be the first time I wasn’t in the front of the bus with the microphone. I chose a small group tour, guaranteed to be a maximum of fourteen people. I decided to go the route of an escorted tour for two reasons. First, I found that renting car in Ireland at my age is a major hassle, requiring that I jump through several hoops and could even then be denied the car rental. Second, I wanted to try a group tour for the possibility of meeting new friends and sharing the experience.
Before I get into the details of the week, let me expound on how the group tour went. This comes from the perspective of a person who is experienced in leading tours, and also one who is a solo traveler. I enjoyed being able to sit back and relax on the road, and having the week planned out for me. I was disappointed, however, that no effort was made to make the group cohesive. In fact, at each stop we were scattered into two or three different lodgings, making it difficult to get to know other guests on the tour. I also have a new appreciation for what a great difference your tour director makes in the experience. I’m pretty proud of the work I’ve done over the years.
So, enough whining. Let’s look at the fun part of the week!
Knowing I would have to manage my own luggage, my first endeavor was to get rid of all the goodies I purchased on our river cruise. In Dublin I stayed at the Point A Parnell Street hotel, since that was where the tour was to meet. It turned out to be right next door to the hotel I stayed at twice before. They were great, and the hotel staff advised me to go to the port office down the street rather than trying to ship through UPS or some other carrier. The post office staff was great, providing me with the boxes I needed and sealing them up for me, all for a reasonable price. I recommend them!
The week included nights in Kinsale, Killarney, Dingle, and Galway. It was a week of castles, castle ruins, music, and traditional Irish food. I think my favorite town was Dingle, both because it’s smaller and right by the sea, but also for the music and crafts all around town. Glaway is larger, but also a great place for music and history.
Having prepared for the Irish climate with rain gear and warm layers, of course it decided to have record high temperatures. We had guided tours of the Rock of Cashel and Cahir Castle, and at both places I found myself having to walk away from the tour and find a shaded spot to sit. Standing in a castle courtyard surrounded by rock with the sun beating down is pretty hard.
While I did visit Blarney Castle, I didn’t kiss the Blarney Stone. I figure I have enough of the Blarney without it. Instead I wandered the grounds and found lovely little spots with flowers, waterfalls, and trees to soothe my soul. In another spot I found a circle of ancient standing stones. Although I touched them, I didn’t fall back through time and meet a handsome Irish warrior. (Only fans of Outlander will get that.)
I was struck by the comparison of how the people of Ireland lived in the past. On the one hand, there are the remnants of the potato fields that were tended by poor farmers who relied on that crop for their food and income. They climbed the hills and tended their crops by hand every day. On the other hand are the fine homes of the wealthy, most of whom lived in England and only occasionally arrived to see the property they owned.
One highlight of the tour was a stop at the West Kerry Sheep Dog Demonstrations. Our host and her dogs gave us a lively demonstration of the talented herding dogs on the farm she inherited from her grandparents. We were able to feed the young sheep and pet them before we retired into the farmhouse to watch her friend show us a wooden toy that he made dance to an Irish jig. We were also offered a taste of poteen, which is basically Irish moonshine. I was brave and tried it, and don’t think I ever need to do that again.
The cliffs of Moher are one of the important attractions of Western Ireland, and I was looking forward to finally visiting them. Please notice I didn’t say “seeing” them. They are impressive. They are gigantic. And on the day we visited, they were hiding. Yes, the heat wave had broken, and the cliffs were behind a curtain of rain and fog. Despite the weather, I did get a few glimpses and enjoyed the time there.
A stop in an area covered with volcanic rock, where I found an interesting resident.
If ever you visit the Emerald Isle, please don’t leave without taking time to listen to traditional Irish music. It’s hard to go far in the country without coming across a pub, and most will have locals playing their instruments—sometimes several. A great way to make sure you find the music is to book a pub tour. I booked an evening with the Traditional Irish Pub Tour in Dublin for my last night, and it was a fun way to finish up my week in Ireland. Great beer, toe-tapping music, and a raucous atmosphere. My hosts were delightful. On learning I was there by myself, one of them went searching through the rest of the group hoping to find what he called “a nice gentleman who is also on his own to enjoy the music with.” He wasn’t successful in finding the gentleman, but I had a great time anyway.
Ireland holds a special place in my heart, since my great-great-great grandparents emigrated to America from there. The second generation in America came to settle in Montana, for which I will always be grateful. Ireland is one of those countries on my “Go Back” list, thanks to the music, the humor, and the breathtaking scenery. And most of all, thanks to the Irish people. I hope to be able to return to visit the origins of the Hyde family in Ireland.
