After retiring from a career in sales and marketing, I decided to do what I really love: Travel. Photography. But I like to write, too. Well, I really like to do a lot of things, and I'm sure they'll all show up at one time or another in my blog. Happy reading!
Step into Argentina’s heart with an estancia visit. Witness gaucho displays, savor epic barbecues, and embrace the vibrant culture that makes this destination truly special.
When I think of Argentina, I think of Gauchos. To my Montana friends, that would be “cowboys.” This visit to an estancia (“ranch” to you Montanans) outside of Buenos Aires did not disappoint.
As our Antarctica cruise came to an end, we disembarked the ship and boarded buses (there were four coaches total) that took us over an hour out of the city. The idea was to give us something to do until our flights left, since most flights were leaving late at night. This turned out to be a lot more fun than anticipated.
We were greeted at the estancia with empanadas and wine (or water) and treated to a taste of the entertainment to come. We then went to an area where the gauchos competed by trying to spear a suspended ring from their galloping horse. When they did succeed, they presented the ring to lady in the crowd, as many horsemen in the past did to honor a woman in the affections.
We were then given time to wander the grounds and look at the many animals there, including sheep, ducks, emus, and peacocks. We also went shopping in their gift shop, and I ended up with a hat and a poncho, which came in handy on the chilly plane home.
Lunch was your typical Argentine barbecue: food, wine, more food, more wine. There was beef, chicken, pork, and sausages, and they just kept coming until we finally had to say “No mas!”
Polly tried the wine. It was obviously too much for her
At the end we were treated to a performance of traditional Argentine music and dance.
Friend Carol and I showed off our new purchases with the performers.
Sip, savor, and create at Uruguay’s Varela Zarranz Winery. Blend wines, enjoy a feast, and forge friendships.
Our last port before leaving the cruise was in Montevideo. As soon as I saw an excursion that would allow me to do some wine blending, I said “Oh, yeah!”
We were taken by van to the Varela Zarranz winery, run by the fourth generation of winemakers in the family. We first had a tour of the winery, ending up in a room in the warehouse with our winemaking supplies before us.
Wine in Training
We were given three bottles of their fine wines: a Tannat, a Cabernet Sauvignon, and a Merlot. Our instructions were to taste the three varietals, and then create three blends with different amounts of each wine. Once we decided on a blend we liked, we were to pour that blend into a wine bottle with our own name on the label. Needless to say, everyone was very happy by the time we got to the “put it in the bottle” part.
Polly helped me decide on a blend.
After our winemaking effort, we were led to the dining venue. They served a traditional barbecue with, of course, much more wine.The meal was hearty and tasty. By this time our small group was very happy, some declaring lifelong friendship.
The pears poached in Tannat wine and cinnamon, served with ice cream, didn’t last long enough for me to take a photo. Ot maybe it had something to do with the wine consumed that lovely day.
A stop at the Falkland Islands brings you close to penguins and some breathtaking scenery. Bluff Cove Farm allows visitors to view penguins from up close.
After leaving Antarctica and braving the Drake Passage once again, we sailed for Stanley in the Falkland Islands. This place landed on my favorites list in 2017 when we arrived there as a stop on our South America cruise. Why a favorite? Wonderful people (and not too many of them), gorgeous vistas, and….wait for it…penguins!
Evidence of the English roots of the Falklands.
The area is replete with several types of penguins: Gentoo, Rockhopper, Magellanic, Macaroni, and the pretty King. The King is the second largest of the penguin species after the Emperor.
I took a tour to the Bluff Cove farm, which includes several nesting areas for Gentoo and King penguins, besides being a working sheep farm. The also have a lovely tea shop with homemade pastries and a gift shop (of course). I was sad to learn the owners decided it’s time to retire, and they are putting the farm up for sale. I just hope someone is able to purchase it and keep the farm available to visitors.
What pattern would you want for wallpaper in the rest room? Penguin book covers, of course!Some of the Kings had eggs they were holding on their feet.A gentoo on a mission.A friendly ranger offered to take a photo of me with the penguins.
As I watched penguins entering and leaving the water, I realized there were two Orcas patrolling the area (see below.)
Cruising the Antarctic Peninsula offers an unparalleled adventure filled with awe-inspiring vistas and diverse wildlife. Witness penguins ‘porpoising’ and marvel at glaciers and icebergs that leave you in awe.
How to describe a place that is beyond description?
We spent four days cruising around the Antarctic Peninsula, and every day held experiences that made me say “oh, my.” I took over 6000 photos, and there is so much variety I can’t narrow it down to two or three. I’ll add several as a gallery at the end of this post for your viewing pleasure.
The first sighting of the White Continent brought tears to my eyes. I’ve wanted to go there for so long (including applying to work at McMurdo Base six years in a row and never getting chosen) that it seemed too wonderful to actually BE there. It was all I expected and more. There were more mountains, more glaciers, more wildlife than I hoped for.
There were whales, birds, elephant seals, and an incredible population of penguins. We would see the penguins “porpoising” near the ship-swimming along and jumping as they went. There were penguins on icebergs. There were penguins on the rocks. At first I was looking at a rocky hillside that actually had some rare plant life growing. But when I looked through my binoculars I realized those weren’t rocks among the plants. It was penguins! Thousands of them. That view happened again and again throughout the four days.
So, the details for those of you who are thinking of traveling there. What was the day to day experience?
First we had to cross the Drake Passage, renowned for being one of the most difficult ocean passages in the world. Having tried to go around Cape Horn on a previous voyage, I was ready for anything. That trip ended in our turning around due to high seas and 90 knot winds. The ship was literally leaning several degrees. This time, however, the trip was comparatively smooth and I breathed a sigh of relief. The passage took an entire night and day, arriving at Paradise Harbour on the Antarctic Peninsula in the afternoon. That afternoon was mostly icebergs and mountains and I thought they were spectacular. It was only a pale hint of what was to come. I admit I was out on desk a short time, because we had 30 knot winds and the wind chill was in the minus numbers. We were constantly reminded to take care to keep everything under control, because Antarctica is a protected environment that doesn’t need random scarves and cell phones flying off the ship.
On the second day we sailed the Neumayer Channel to Port Lockroy, where the staff of the UK Port Lockroy station came aboard. The station is a UK Heritage site, and is manned only during the Antarctic summer. They spoke of life at the station, the history of the UK presence in Antarctica, and sold us post cards and stamps so we could send mail home from Antarctica. I was tickled to hear that they loved it when cruise ships invited them aboard, because it meant they could wash clothes and take hot showers!
The third day started at Deception Island, which is a collapsed caldera. It was snowing and quite cold, but still we went out on deck to take in the view and take pictures. I admit I was out a fairly short time, because we had 30 knot winds and the wind chill was in the minus numbers.
That afternoon we went on to Admiralty Bay, where we viewed several more research stations and thousands of penguins, both on land and in the water. The weather there was much nicer, with the water being calm and reflective.
On the fourth day we sailed completely around Elephant Island and spent some time at Point Wild in the bay where the Shackleton Expedition sought refuge after their ship, The Endurance, was crushed by the ice in 1915. The story is an amazing one and I want to do more research on it. There is a monument on the spot where the stranded crew lived through the winter, featuring a bust of Captain Pardo, who rescued the crew.
As we left the island, we headed back across the Drake Passage and brought to an end our Antarctic adventure. It was four days I’ll always remember in awe.
I just finished four days of cruising around the Antarctic Peninsula. I’ve started working on a real post about it, but I realized this was a post that needed time and reflection. I have so many photos, so many experiences, so much wildlife to share, that I want to take extra time to do it right.
So for my family and friends who are wondering: yes, I’m still alive. I’m still delighted with this amazing opportunity. And I’ll be working on my Antarctica story over the next few days.
One more port at the farthest South city in the world before heading to Antarctica.
The port has grown since my last visit-or maybe it just seemed like a sleepy city before because it was Christmas Day. I took a tour called Flavors at the End of the World, and it was great. We walked up to the main shopping area and made stops at a wine shop for a wine tasting and individual charcuterie plates, a restaurant with a sampling of local foods, and a chocolate shop with excellent chocolates.
Polly is drinking wine again!
Ushuaia was originally a town that held a prison that made certain escape wasn’t an option. They have a sense of humor about it, shown by the cops chasing the escapee who is trying to climb out of the window above.
By the way, there is a Hard Rock Cafe in town. American commerce infiltrates everywhere.
I did a little shopping ( of COURSE I need a hat and a t-shirt that brags about Antarctica) and on the way back to the ship discovered a local crafts market. Always attracted to shiny things-I must be part raven-I ended up buying a beautiful ring from the man who created it. He even resized it for me while I waited. He and his wife were so gracious, and we managed to communicate with a translation app despite not sharing a common language. No matter where I go in the world, I always seem to find kindness.
Discover Punta Arenas: From penguin-filled adventures to a charming Pisco Sour experience.
The first port for our cruise was Punta Arenas, Chile.
I didn’t do an excursion for this port. My last visit was nine years ago, when I took a ferry to Magdalena Island, which is a nesting ground for penguins. It was such a memorable experience, and I got so many amazing photos, that I decided it couldn’t be topped. Instead, I took the ship’s tender shuttle to town and explored.
I had a delicious lunch in a hotel bar , with a glass ceiling and lots of plants. Not to mention a handsome waiter who had a great sense of humor. It was a good opportunity to have a Pisco Sour, a traditional Chilean drink. There were two versions of the drink on the menu, one simply a Pisco Sour, the other a Chilean Pisco Sour. I asked the waiter what the difference was, besides the higher price for the latter. He assured me the Chilean version, made from Chilean alcohol, was much better. 😃
A stroll around the city took me to a lovely park (above) that despite the chilly wind was a pleasant visit.
The visit to the park gave me the opportunity to touch the toe of the statue that is supposed to bring good luck and a return to Punta Arenas in the future. You’ll notice his toe is pretty shiny!
The wind was very strong, making it hard to maintain my balance on the pier as we waited to board the tender shuttle back to the ship. The ride was pretty exciting, too!
Antarctica is exciting, but first I had to get to Buenos Aires from Phoenix, where my friends Lee and Leslie Croft offered to babysit my car.
The entire trip ended up being 29 hours door to door. Partly my fault, since I had a long wait in Atlanta. I allowed extra time between flights because I wasn’t sure where I would to start the trip when I bought the flight to Buenos Aires, and it was a good thing I did. I flew to Atlanta and then had to gather my luggage and board a shuttle to the international terminal. The whole process ended up taking nearly three hours.
After an overnight flight I was treated to the experience of standing in line to get through customs and then wait for my luggage to arrive. The whole process took 2 1/2 hours, most of which was spent in a hallway waiting to get into the customs area where another long line waited.
The best thing was that the driver I had arranged to take my friend Carol and I to our hotel waited for us AND was handsome. When we got to the hotel the access was blocked by a street market, and our handsome host dragged our bags over cobblestone streets for three blocks to the hotel.
After a lovely dinner in an Italian restaurant…in Argentina, go figure…we were ready to rest and get ready to board our cruise the next day.
We stayed in a Hilton boutique hotel, the Anselmo, and it was lovely. With an open courtyard and, most importantly, a bar staffed by friendly and helpful bartenders, we enjoyed our short stay.
After a (very) few days visiting friends and family in Montana, I headed South to do the same in California and Arizona. I also spent time doing some pet sits in Arizona (thank you, Trusted Housesitters!). How could you not love these sweeties?
Trusted Housesitters is a great organization that matches travelers with pet parents to the advantage of both. I spent a quiet Thanksgiving with two labradoodles and Polly.
When I got on my connecting flight from New Zealand in Los Angeles, the flight attendants surprised me with a plaque and a goodie bag to recognize my Million Miles with Delta Air Lines. It only took me 38 years! I didn’t pay for most of those miles-I spent over twenty years traveling for work almost every week!
Tomorrow begins the next big adventure. ANTARCTICA! First a flight to Buenos Aires to board the ship for my cruise.
The last time I visited New Zealand I didn’t get to the far North end or the far South end of the country. Even as I boarded my flight home, I knew I’d have to return. I decided to focus on the Northland this time, above Auckland. I’m so glad I did. As you drive North the island grows narrower, so the ocean is never far away. There are forests and farms and lovely towns that entice you to slow down and enjoy the ride.
I chose my favorite photos from the Northland segment of my trip, and I’ll describe the adventure below.
I chose to stay in different areas of the Northland, spending two or three days in each place. It would have been easy enough to use one spot as a base and drive to the various places, but I was interested in trying out some different lodgings.
This part of the trip involved picking up my rental car after leaving Waiheke Island. I decided to use a location North of Auckland and take an Uber to the office from the ferry terminal, rather than trying to get used to driving on the left in the heart of the city. I’ve found that it’s fairly easy to drive on the other side of the road once you get on the highway-it’s the turns that can be a challenge. The biggest issue I usually have is turning on the wipers when I mean to use my turn signal. All the controls are switched.
My first stop was the Avalon resort in KeriKeri. Reasonably priced for what you get, I had a one-bedroom cabin in this lovely setting with ducks and ponds and lots of trees. Oh, and chickens. I was warned to keep the gate to my deck closed, because the chickens like to come into the house. Sure enough, I had a visitor each day.
I went to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds to learn a bit about the Maori culture. There was a museum, a guided tour, and a show with young people demonstrating their songs and stories. I’ve always been fascinated with the Maori culture, but this day gave me a whole new understanding and respect for the people and how they have worked to preserve their culture.
The following day I drove to the West Coast to visit the Waipoua Forest Sanctuary. The gigantic kauri trees there are some of the oldest living creatures on earth. Unfortunately, they are threatened by a disease that is killing many of them, so the sanctuary requires all visitors to go through an entryway that will sanitize their shoes to prevent spreading the disease. So I couldn’t hug the tree, but just being in its presence is awesome.
My next location was an Airbnb in Ahipara on the West Coast. This was a beautiful home right across the street from the beach. The entire front walls of the home opened up, so I could sit in the kitchen, listen to the waves, and breathe in the scent of the jasmine in the yard.
That was the perfect starting point to head to the farthest North point of the country, Cape Reinga. It was threatening rain, but turned out to be a magical day. As I approached the parking area for the Cape, it was raining and foggy. I was disappointed since I couldn’t see the ocean at all. I decided to get out of my car and walk over to the restrooms anyway, and when I did the rain slowed and I could see an archway with a path leading through it. As I walked through the arch, the fog began to lift and I could see the lighthouse in the distance. Now, do I want to walk down there? If I do, it means an uphill walk on the way back and I’m not getting any younger, you know. I decided to go a little way to take some photos. Then a little further. Then the fog lifted completely and I went a little further. Yes, I ended up at the lighthouse, and glad I did. This is the place the Maori believe their dead come to so they can climb down the roots of the tree at the point to their afterlife. It’s a sacred place, and you can feel it. Oh, and the walk back up was actually pretty easy.
Next I was off to stay in the Duke of Marlborough Hotel in Russell. A historic hotel with the tag line “Refreshing Rascals and Reprobates Since 1827”. How could I resist?
Somewhere along the way someone mentioned I’d be taking the ferry to Russell, but looking at a map I found that it’s on the mainland so there must be a road, right? There is, but it didn’t take long to realize it wasn’t a good idea. All gravel, narrow, with warning signs not to drive a camper on it. I figured Avis would not be happy, so I backtracked and lined up for the ferry. There’s a photo in the gallery above, with Polly sitting on my dash checking out the other vehicles on the ferry. It was really easy-just drive on, stay in your car and they come around to take your payment.
Russell is a lovely town, and I loved the hotel. They treated me like royalty, and I had a suite with a balcony overlooking the bay. The Moreton Bay Fig Tree was right next to my balcony, and I think it must be at least 10 feet in diameter. Polly and I enjoyed sitting on the balcony with a glass of New Zealand wine and watching the sun set. There were some great little shops in the town, and in one I had a long conversation with the shopkeeper, who is an American expat who moved here for love. Always a great story.
For my final stay I chose a place with a short drive to the airport. I didn’t want to stay IN Auckland, but NEAR it. The Castaways Resort is south of the city on the coast, and it was a lot more than I was expecting. I thought I had booked a small studio room, but when I got there I was given a two-bedroom villa! The villas are very private, and the hotel takes you to your accommodation by golf cart. If I had known how beautiful the place was, I would have planned to stay longer! The one funny thing was how long it took me to connect the icon on their website, which looked like Wilson in the movie. Of course. Wilson, Castaway, Wilson, Castaway. I was two days into my stay before I made the connection.
On my final day I drove out of the resort property and stopped along the driveway to take a photo of the rabbit sitting in the field. It’s about six feet tall, from what I could estimate, and I’m pretty sure it’s a statue. Either that, or its name is Harvey. (Look it up if you don’t get the reference.)
New Zealand continues to be one of my favorite places in the world. I hope I’ll be able to return again. I still have to visit the far South end of the country, after all.
Travels with Billie 