Category: Travel

New Zealand’s South Island

My flight to Christchurch was easy, although I did learn one thing: New Zealand Air will not allow you to put your bag under the seat in front of you if you are in an exit row. I was told after I was seated, which meant I didn’t have access to iPad or headphones since I was also in the window seat. I entertained myself by using their headphones and watching a movie.

To make my life easier, I took SuperShuttle to the hotel rather than deal with luggage and a bus just to save a few dollars. I was at the Christchurch City Hotel, which is a new hotel in the center of the city. It was a great location, since the tourist trolley was right around the corner, along with a wide variety of shopping and restaurants. And the staff was great. Their top floor bar and restaurant is a hidden gem-good food and drink in a gorgeous setting.

Christchurch is a city in transition, still recovering from the devastating series of earthquakes in 2010 and 2011. The central business district is a combination of older historic buildings, new construction to replace destroyed buildings, and more than a few empty lots where buildings once stood. The “cardboard cathedral” is the church that was badly damaged in the quakes-it’s truly a cardboard cathedral, since the front of it is a temporary façade painted to look like the original cathedral.

The “Cardboard Cathedral” under construction.
The Wizard of Christchurch: A local Character
How to hide an empty lot; this is an optical illusion!

I took the Kiwi Rail train trip to Greymouth and back to see more of that area of the South Island. It wasn’t what I hoped for. I was advised their premier seating wasn’t really necessary, so I booked the regular class. Big mistake. On the way West I was seated in front of a family of ten who were apparently unaware that there were other passengers on the train. They spent the entire trip chattering loudly, so I couldn’t hear the narration, or even the PA announcements. Fortunately, they were staying in Greymouth, so the ride back to Christchurch was much quieter. To make the trip even more pleasant, it stopped raining so I could see the scenery! If I return, this is one excursion I wouldn’t do again.

Because I brought clothing for the wedding and festivities in Australia, I thought I might ship some things home, along with some gifts I wanted to buy. Don’t plan on doing that! When I checked I learned that the cost to ship to the US for a small package of about 5 pounds was nearly $200. I decided to just suck it up and stuff my suitcase.

From Christchurch I flew to Nelson, at the far North of the South Island. This was a commuter flight, and I found that Kiwis are not at all as fussy as the American TSA. Once I presented my passport to check my bag, I did not have to provide my ID again, and there was NO security check. The flight was a quick hour, and it gave me an opportunity to see the landscape from the air.

Then it was time to learn to drive on the left side of the road. This was a first for me, and I’ve been fretting about it for months. I picked up my Avis car at the Nelson airport, and took some time to get familiar with it before I roared off into infinity and beyond. I used my phone to navigate, and for my next trip I’m going to make sure I have some sort of holder so I don’t lose it on the floor. Driving on the left really wasn’t all that difficult, as long as I paid attention to what I was doing at the corners and the traffic circles. I did have a tendency to signal a turn with my windshield wipers, however.

I drove to Kaikura, a 3 ½ hour drive. I could have just driven from Christchurch in less time than flying and driving, but I added the Kaikura stop late in the game. The first part of the trip was on narrow mountain roads, so I wouldn’t recommend it to a nervous driver. I love those kinds of roads, and really enjoyed the drive. The latter part of the trip was along the coast, which gave me a look at some stunning scenery.

In Kaikura I stayed at The White Morph, very close to my excursion for the next day, and with a stunning view of a wall. In the morning I went to the Dolphin Encounter and checked in early. They have a nice café there, so I was able to get breakfast before I was called to get my wetsuit and gear needed for my swim with the dolphins. They transported us to the dock, and after a 20-minute ride out to the area where we found the dolphins, we were ready to get in the water. I can only say that this was an experience I’ll never forget. I did swim with sting rays in the Carribbean, and there were maybe ten or fifteen sting rays in the area. With the dolphins, there was something like 600 animals, all curious and ready to play. As soon as we entered the water they headed right for us, swimming around us and jumping out of the water. We stayed in the area about an hour, with the dolphins moving away, coming back, jumping and somersaulting, and generally having a good time.

Next was the Marlborough wine area, staying at the Cork and Keg in Blenheim. This is a small pub with just three little motel rooms, but the staff was wonderful and the room was just what I needed. It was nice to just walk across the parking lot for dinner, being able to have a drink since I didn’t have to drive. The pub also has their own cast of characters, so I had a nice chat both nights with the locals. 

Wine tasting was on the agenda, although I had to limit what I actually drank since I drove. I visited the No.1 sparkling wine tasting room, since they are recommended for how they ferment their wines. I had a little extra time before my appointment, so I also stopped at the Gin Shack. They were very friendly also, and gave me an overview of their distilling methods and the botanicals they use. Then I had an appointment at Fromm vineyard. I had met the vintner at a wine tasting back in the states, and he invited me to visit. They did a very nice personal tour and wine tasting for me, which made me feel pretty special. The entire Marlborough wine country is beautiful, and the array of vineyards is impressive. There are almost 70,000 acres of vineyards, by far the largest growing region in the country.

I finished my tour of the South Island with a drive to Picton, where I caught the ferry to the North Island. Finding the rental car return was a challenge, since the ferry landing is being upgraded. Note: you can take a rental car from one island to the other. I dropped my car and picked up another in Wellington. It would have been much easier to just keep the car, although I’m not sure what the extra cost would be.

Melbourne and Bendigo

Next I flew to Bendigo, about two hours north of Melbourne if you’re driving. My friend Lori met me at the airport-apparently the Bendigo airport is new and much of it is still under construction. The flight was on a commuter plane similar to the ones that fly out of my home airport. That meant I was only allowed one small bag in the cabin, so I ended up having to check my backpack. Had I known they handle this the same way we do in the USA, I could have kept it and dropped it at the gate. Several passengers did that, most likely because they commute frequently. Hindsight is 20-20.

The week was spent as Lori’s guest along with friends Tracy and Shawn. This was serendipity at work: after we had planned my visit, Lori’s boyfriend asked her to marry him, and the wedding coincided with my visit.

My experiences here won’t be much help if you’re looking for travel details. I was completely spoiled all week, with Lori and her fiancée hosting us grandly at their Bendigo and Melbourne homes.

Bendigo is a historic gold mining town of about 100,000 citizens. Just as in the US, there was a gold boom in the 1800s, drawing gold seekers from around the world. Today the city has retained much of the historic feel, with lovely verandas on houses decorated with lacy iron filigree. They have a historic trolley that allows you to see the town in less than an hour (or more if you want to get off and explore before reboarding the next trolley.) It’s also home to the largest Chinese dragon outside of China. They bring it out at Easter for a big parade; Google it!

Another thing they have is bats, which most of the locals would love to see gone. They’re known as grey-headed flying foxes (don’t ask me why-I don’t know!) They’re protected, but the population has exploded in the area and the smell of bat poo (not to mention the possibility of wearing some) is unpleasant. As a visitor, I was fascinated by watching them gather and fly in the evening.

We spent two days in Melbourne, where Lori was able to take us in a short walking tour of the central business district. Their home is in a high rise in the Southbank area, which is a lovely area on the Yarra River. The city has plenty of historic buildings mingling with new skyscrapers. There seemed to be little alleyways everywhere, all having interesting shops and dining tucked away. During the tour we had real New York pizza at Sal’s Pizza; it was excellent and authentic!

Melbourne’s Central Business District is filled with interesting alleyways and shopping venues. These fellows strike the hour, to remind you it’s time to catch the trolley home.

Before heading back to Bendigo, we visited the Queen Victoria Market. It’s similar to the many open markets in US cities, but this one has an enclosed building that has dozens of food vendors. Yes, you can get kangaroo meat here

Back in Bendigo, our last three days together were spent in wedding preparations and meeting family and friends of the groom. We had some concerns on Friday when the skies opened up and a drenching rain turned the streets into rivers. By the wedding day, however, it decided to cooperate and give us a lovely day for the balcony ceremony.

On Sunday the groom’s brother and his wife gave me a ride back to the Melbourne airport. Off to Christchurch, New Zealand tomorrow!

Australia, finally

My Down Under adventure is under way! I’m writing both for my armchair traveler friends, and for those who are looking for details as they plan their own adventures.

Consultation with friends who traveled to NZ recently helped in my planning, especially since I’ll be exploring a lot of territory. I took to heart the advice to book early, since November and December tend to be a very busy travel time.

I spent a good deal of time working out my itinerary. Luckily, I made certain I booked transport and accommodations with cancellation options. That came in handy as I talked with travelers over the summer. I found that with hotels, the pricing was better if I booked early. What did NOT work to my advantage was my flight; I booked in April only to find prices drop dramatically in September. Fortunately, Delta made a change to my flight and that gave me the ability to cancel and get a credit. I rebooked for several hundred dollars less, and used the remaining credit for a later flight to Hawaii! The same thing with a rental car. I booked a car for Wellington early on, but it was crazy expensive. I was just about to cancel when I got an email about a sale, and ended up booking a car for twice as long, but half the cost. So, my advice is: go ahead and book, but keep an eye on the prices.

First Stop: Sydney

My flight left Los Angeles at 10 pm, arriving at 8:30 am two days later. It was a 15 ½ hour flight, but we crossed the international date line, losing a whole day. I’ll get that day back when I return. At my age I don’t want to lose ANY days! I was concerned about jet lag, and worked out a plan to reduce it. I took a nap the afternoon before I left, and on boarding my flight changed my watch to Sydney time. Then I worked to stay awake until what would be a normal bedtime in Sydney. Then I tried to get a full night’s rest, and was mostly successful. There is no comfortable position when you’re in the cheap seats…

On arrival, customs was looking difficult. Several international flights arrived at the same time, and after bag claim the line to get through the final customs check was several hundred people long and not moving. I have to give credit to the customs staff, though, because within about 20 minutes they had stepped up their process and got everyone through fairly quickly.

The airport train, T8, was easy to use. I boarded at the terminal, and it took me to Wynyard Station in just a few minutes. I used my phone to tap for the fare, and that made it so easy. In fact, as of this writing I haven’t had to get Aussie cash at all, because everyone uses cards or phones to pay. The train station is right below my hotel, the Little National Hotel. Once I got to the street I was confused, because my phone said I had arrived, but no hotel. Then a woman stopped and asked if I needed directions. It turned out I was standing right in front of the very low-key sign on the hotel. Reception is on the first floor, and the desk person was incredibly helpful. She even allowed me to check in at 11 am, since my room was available. Rooms are fairly small, but perfect for my needs. The hotel is new, with all the plugs and amenities you could want. There’s a lovely rooftop bar that serves light food. Proximity to the train was a big plus, although I ended up walking to The Rocks, Darling Harbor, and even to Circular Quay, where the Sydney Opera House is located.

It was pretty hard to identify my hotel by the tiny “LN” sign.

I spent the first day outside as much as possible, trying to reset my body clock and NOT take a nap. I walked to Barangaroo at Darling Harbor and wandered along until I found a restaurant that appealed to me for lunch-there were many to choose from. Then I went to Circular Quay to get my first close look at the opera house. It was altogether a nice relaxing day. That evening I went to the rooftop bar to enjoy a cocktail and a light snack before heading to bed. It was only then that I realized that I wasn’t jetlagged at all!

Exploring Sydney

I had booked tickets for Twelfth Night and Das Rheingold performances on consecutive nights at the Sydney Opera House. It was a real treat, although I was disappointed to find that the opera was not a stage production, but simply the Symphony Orchestra and the singers on stage. To me, the joy of an opera is the staging. Note to self: read the fine print. If there is any.

I did NOT climb the famous Sydney Harbor Bridge.
The Sydney Opera House is lovely at night.

I also took a harbor cruise. It was a small boat, and nothing fancy, but I was mainly interested in getting out on the harbor so I could take photos. I chatted with the guide, and found it interesting that the concept of Black Friday has hit Sydney in a big way. He was a bit unsure of what it is, so I explained about Thanksgiving in the USA, and the fact that most people have the following Friday off and go Christmas shopping.

The Rocks was a favorite-lots of old buildings and little alleyways to explore. They have an outdoor market on weekends, which was fun. I purchased a bottle of limoncello to take to friends in Bendigo after the seller assured me it was legal to take (unopened) alcohol on a domestic flight in Australia. Gotta love those Aussies!

On my final day in Sydney, I stored my bags with the hotel desk after checking out (again, the staff is so accommodating) and took a walk to the business district. My friend Lee told me one of the windows in the St. Andrews Cathedral is dedicated to his great-great grandmother and asked if I might get a photo for him. It took three very helpful people to track down just where the window is, but I did find it and was able to photograph it for him.

By the time I finished the shopping area was in high gear. With hundreds of shopping venues, it brought thousands to the area. I couldn’t believe how busy it was on a Sunday afternoon. While there were many high-end stores in the area, I particularly enjoyed The Strand-mostly for window shopping and people watching.

In the afternoon I took the train back to the airport to fly off to my next destination: Bendigo!

Driving the Alcan

There are some moments that take your breath away.

I began the long drive home from Anchorage at the end of my season as a tour director in late September

. I was tired, I was sick. REALLY sick. And I had forgotten how magnificent the drive is in the fall. The last time I drove this road was in 2019, and I was with my husband. This drive brought back those bittersweet memories, but I could still hear his amazement at the beauty of this area with the changing colors. I spent a lot of time on this trip pulling over and napping, since I wasn’t sleeping very well. Just imagine opening your eyes after a nap and finding Mount Drum staring back at you.

The Value of Travel

Why spend all that money when you can see it all on a screen?

An article about travel in Alaska caught my eye yesterday, so of course I had to read it. I wanted to see how accurate it was, and to be transported to one of my favorite places in the world.

In reading some of the comments at the end, I came across one that said he had seen Alaska in a documentary on TV so he didn’t need to spend the money to go there. It brought to mind the old truism: “You get what you pay for.”

Anyone who has been to Alaska can verify that it’s impossible to get the feeling of vastness, majesty, beauty, and the wilderness unless you experience it firsthand. When you see Denali on a clear day there is a feeling of awe. When you watch a grizzly gorging on berries and ignoring the bus full of people just a few yards away, it’s exciting. If you have to stop in the middle of a city freeway to allow a moose to wander across, there’s delight.

So many events I’ve experienced in my travels can only happen when you are really there.

In Chile I went to a penguin nesting island and was told to stay on the path and not attempt to touch the penguins. Of course, no one told the penguins the rules, and one of them came up and started chewing on my shoelaces.

During a whale watching expedition in Maui a Humpback came to our raft and surfaced just inches from the side, so close I could have touched it (I didn’t.)

In Abu Dhabi, I watched the sun go down, reflecting off the buildings and the water, and heard the call to prayer reflecting across the quieting city.

In Rome, I walked a street used by merchants and shoppers two thousand years before the birth of Christ.

In Montreux, Switzerland, I explored a castle that has stood for a thousand years.

Then we walked into town and came across a statue that looked just like Freddie Mercury (it was him-it turns out he lived there.)

In Dubai, a trip to the spice souk (market) was a joy of sensory overload. The colors of the spices, the lovely smells, the noise of the merchants and buyers, all combined to create an indelible memory.

The most memorable part of my travels, however, is the people I’ve met. People all over the world are, for the most part, kind and welcoming and interesting and funny. Of course the tour guides are like that, but I also like to connect with the people I come across in my travels.

The nice gent at a local craft fair in the Outer Hebrides islands of Scotland, who was selling Harris tweed. He explained that he and his daughter did the weaving themselves, and gave me a lesson in the history of the cloth.

The young man at a market in Peru who was selling watercolors, and shyly told me that he was going to school to be an artist, and that the watercolors were his work.

The waiter in a restaurant in Rome who told us he had lived in Queens in New York, which was why his English was so good. He said his job at the restaurant was to get us drunk. He was good at his job.

The priest I met on a water taxi in Venice who was assigned to work on a refugee plan in Syria. He told me about the country and the people, and how highly he regarded them.

Getting out of your own locale, being open to new places and experiences, connecting with other humans; those are the events that bring us closer and help make the world a better place. Not everyone we meet can speak our language, but they have families, people they love, dreams for the future, and the ability to laugh. And I have always been able to communicate with a person in some way, regardless of their language.

Go. It’s worth it.