Getting ready to leave the land of Charlie Russell to head to the land of Shakespeare. This eight week adventure will take me from one end of the globe to the other, ending up in New Zealand before I fly home. Yes, I’m doing it alone. Yes, I’m ok with that.
Heading back to Montana from Alaska, I decided I’ve driven the Alcan enough. I think it’s been 17 or 18 times, including my childhood trips. I’ve never been on the Cassiar, which is the Western route to Alaska…and much less developed. Why not try a new challenge? I found it much like driving the Alcan used to be in the early years, although it’s paved and in some ways an easier drive than parts of today’s Alcan.
But! There are so many miles of no cell service, signs of civilization are few and far between, and I spent two long days feeling pretty alone. Ah, for want of a Tim Horton’s. And when my trusty phone ran out of battery because I wasn’t paying attention, I lost my route guidance. Didn’t really matter, I guess. There’s only the one road. Just keep following it, nitwit!
By the way, I’m trying to find a name for my travel companion. Any ideas? I plan to take her with me for my upcoming travels.
On this busy morning in the middle of a tour I took time to listen to Denali. They say the mountain sings. My ears can’t hear it, but my heart can.
And I’m off! I did take photos of the enormous backup at the Canadian border but decided that probably isn’t allowed. There were two cars in front of me. TeeHee! I went through the Chief Mountain crossing, mainly because the scenery is better closer to Glacier Park.
I was a little concerned about how my entry to Canada would go, given the bad feelings being generated over threatened tariffs and comments by our current administration. I shouldn’t have worried. The agent was Canadian-style polite and friendly. When I told her my purpose in Canada was to drive to my summer job as a Tour Director in Alaska, she was delighted and we had a great conversation about it. I finally had to go after a couple of cars came up behind me and looked like they were getting impatient. I just love Canadians!
The drive over the Alcan (or the Alaska Highway) was beautiful, as always. The first time I was on this road was in 1952, and it was still gravel and very primitive. It’s been paved since the mid-70s, and although it certainly isn’t a smooth freeway by any means, it’s a lot easier to drive these days. I didn’t hurry, took my time, and completed the trip without incident. I had no trouble finding gas or food, and the hotels I stayed in were a huge improvement on some of the lodging available in the 1950s and 1960s.
My wildlife count for the drive was four deer, three black bears, three herds of bison with the cutest babies, a porcupine, an elk, a moose, two bald eagles, two bunnies, and a wild herd of motorcyclists.
As I made the drive from Tok to Anchorage I was greeted by the spectacular mountains of Alaska, and it felt like coming home.
I spent way too much time choosing the final word for this post. Do you have ANY idea how many synonyms there are for “unfettered?” I want a word that describes my coming year. Liberated? Enfranchised? Fancy-free? Yeah. All of those. By the way, one of the words is “footloose,” which I really like. But to me it brings up memories of the movie, and I assure you, I NEVER looked like the stars in that movie. And I was never as hot a Kevin Bacon. Even now that we’ve both aged.
Anyway, a few incidents came together about the time I celebrated my 79th birthday, and together they cascaded into a waterfall that is taking me to distant locales. (I love waterfalls, by the way. I have hundreds of minutes of waterfall videos that I plan to stitch together into a movie I can watch when I’m in the nursing home. But I digress.)
I sold my home. The sale closed the day after my birthday. I listened to the experts who said not to make big life decisions in the first year after the death of a spouse-I waited over two years before taking this big step. But I realized my condo was creating work and worry outweighing the comfort of owning my home. I mean, how many times do I have to descend into the spidery crawl space to turn off the water and gas when I go traveling for months at a time? Ick! And then to have to do the same thing when I get home so I can take a shower? I’d rather have an apartment where I can just walk out the door and lock it up, and call maintenance when something breaks.
On my birthday my favorite cousin reminded me that I was embarking on my eightieth trip around the sun. We talked about how amazing it is that I’m in good health and relatively fit, and how I should be sure to take advantage of that fact while I’m able. When I was a small child I went to a birthday party for a friend who was turning eighty, and I asked her what it felt like to be eighty. Her reply was: “Honey, I still feel like I’m eighteen until I try to get out of this chair.” I think that’s me today. Yes, I’m a bit slower and heavier and achier, but in my mind I’m still ready to go. I do occasionally have to remind myself that sitting on the floor isn’t a good idea these days. At some point you have to get up.
The day my home sale closed I packed the last few items from my condo into my car and started the long drive over the Alaska Highway to my summer job. I’m a tour director, which entails sharing an apartment with a bunch of other tour directors, most of whom I will see only occasionally as we all lead tours throughout the state. You might think I’m a little old to still be working, but I find the work interesting and fun. I finally understand why my grandmother kept tending bar occasionally even into her 80s. Because she liked it.
Then I got tired of reading the Facebook posts of women who talk about their fear of traveling, and asking questions like: how do I find someone to travel with if I’m alone? Is it safe? How can I find my way? Maybe I’m a tad dismissive; maybe my years of travel for work made me insensitive to people who are afraid to walk into a restaurant alone. But holy moly, ladies, suck it up! You don’t need someone standing next to you to tell you the view of the ocean is spectacular! OK, I’ll admit it’s fun to travel with someone you care about, but trust me, it’s miserable to travel with someone who isn’t a good fit. My husband was always fun to travel with, and when I’m feeling alone I still talk to him. And I can still hear him telling me how graceful I looked when I tripped over my own feet.
With most of my worldly possessions tucked safely into a storage unit, a little money in the bank, and no mortgage or rent to pay other than my share of the Alaska apartment, I found myself with the freedom to look at life from a different angle. The idea started slow and then became that waterfall that keeps gaining momentum as it flows. I decided to make my eightieth year one to remember. Along the way, I hope I can show some of those ladies who are afraid to step out into the world alone that it can be done.
I had already booked a cruise to Antarctica over Christmas. I knew I didn’t want to spend Christmas at home again. I love my family and friends, but Christmas is still hard-I lost my Richard just a few days before Christmas and the memories of that are inevitable. Besides, I want to see Antarctica. I tried for several years to get on seasonal staff there, but it never happened. So I decided to make it happen.
Then I found a month-long cruise I wanted to take right after my Alaska season is done. The next thing I knew I had booked four cruises, a pet-sitting gig in Arizona, and a couple of land-based trips. My goal is to keep traveling until near the end of my eightieth year, finally settling down in late Spring of 2026. I want to be able to add a couple of continents and several countries to my life list, while remembering to “be in the moment” as I collect memories for that time when I won’t be able to travel so easily.
And I want to share this with you, dear reader. I hope I can inspire other women to pack a bag, take a drive, get on a flight, and maybe go somewhere they’ve never been. Even if it’s just a town on the other side of their own state. Along the way I’ll share my journey with you. Join me.
By the way, a truly disciplined writer would have started this series on day one, posting tidbits along the way and being sure to add a post every day or two. Discipline? We don’t need no stinking discipline! I’m already two months into my year and playing catch-up. So my posts are a bit out of date. So sue me.
Travel is the only thing you can buy that makes you richer.
My five-week solo adventure to New Zealand and Australia is over. Although I’ve done a lot of traveling, this was my longest trip, and my first international trip alone. I learned a few things along the way, and found that some of my travel skills were useful. I’ll share them with you, my trusty reader.
If you really want to see New Zealand, rent a car and don’t hurry. (And don’t forget to give back the keys when you return the car. That’s another-expensive-story.)
New Zealand highways are not like American Interstates. They are mostly two lanes, often winding, with lots of traffic circles. Take your time. They’re fun to drive-if you are a driving nut like me.
Don’t be afraid to drive on the left. I worried about it, but found that after a day or two it came naturally. Just pay attention.
Be flexible. All the planning in the world can be stopped by unforeseen circumstances. Weather, accidents, unexpected closures…things happen. Take it in stride and make an alternative plan. Sometimes serendipity can make an even better itinerary.
ALWAYS give yourself time to take it all in. Just going somewhere and ticking the boxes as fast as you can is exhausting, and misses the whole point of travel.
Allow time in your itinerary to take advantage of an unplanned activity.
Give yourself time in each place. My ideal is at least three days in one spot. That allows time to get to know an area, and maybe do a couple of day excursions or activities.
Allow time to relax. In the middle of my three-week trip, I spent five days on the seacoast. For the most part I just sat and looked at the ocean. It was just the break I needed.
Talk to people. Whether locals or fellow travelers, you may get suggestions for your trip, learn something about the area, or just find something to laugh about.
Experience the culture. Learn a little history, get to know what life is like there, try food and drink you’ve never had before. If you’re just going to collect photos of the tourist sites, you might as well stay home and watch a documentary of it.
Arriving on the North Island in Wellington after a ferry ride from Picton, the weather was bad but the ferry handled it just fine. I even treated myself to a glass of bubbly with a sandwich from the on-board café. The trip went quickly thanks to a chat with a local returning from a visit with her parents. It was pouring rain in Wellington, and taxis were scarce. After waiting for a half hour, I called an Uber to take me to the Avis office. All car rentals have been moved off the harbor due to construction, and that created an amusing interlude. The Uber driver picked me up, looked at his navigation, and informed me we were AT the car rental. No, it moved downtown, I said. Well, the nav system says you’re there, he said. He finally took the address I had been given and put it into his phone, and off we went to the correct location. I just paid him in cash.
I’m not a fan of big cities, so I headed right out of Wellington in the rain, white knuckles and all. My destination was a vacation rental in Paraparaumu, about an hour north on the coast. This was my mid-travel break, and I spent five days in a lovely apartment with a stunning view of the ocean. Despite many horror stories about vacation rental disasters, I’ve been fortunate to find lovely accommodations all over the world. My recommendation is to always read the fine print, definitely read the reviews (and evaluate whether they sound like real people), look closely at the photos, and if the price sounds too good to be true, it probably is!
In this case, I found a real gem. My landlady lived upstairs and was friendly and helpful. We even walked her dog on the beach together. After being on the road for a couple of weeks, this was just the relaxing interlude I needed. Long walks on the beach, a little exploring, a trip to a bird sanctuary island, and one day trip over the mountains to wine country.
Kapiti Island is a bird sanctuary, and visits to the island are limited and controlled. It lies just across the bay from Paraparaumu, a fifteen-minute boat trip. I booked a day tour to the island well in advance, and learned it fills up in the warmer months. I wanted to be able to stay in their overnight accommodations, but they were all booked far ahead of time. Our guide was a descendant of the early Maori settlers, and he was interesting and informative. I did a hike with others in our group, and then they provided a delicious lunch. I highly recommend this excursion, especially if you’re a bird lover. If you’re hoping to see the national symbol, a kiwi, be advised that they are nocturnal and hide in burrows during the day. Why the locals chose a symbol that most people will never see, I have no idea.
A drive over the mountain to the Martinborough wine country was again one I wouldn’t recommend to a nervous driver, but I loved it! Narrow winding roads with spectacular views. The wine country was not as large or varied as the Marlborough region on the South Island. If you had to choose just one, I’d opt for the South Island. I visited Greytown, which is an early Victorian village that is now filled with shops, antiques, and cafes along the main street.
I visited a WWII Marine war memorial that was recommended by my host. New Zealand was key to the Pacific war effort, and this area was the site of a large camp used for training, supply, and respite for the fighting Marines-the beaches were perfect for assault training.
Flexibility being my mantra for this trip, I decided to skip going back to Wellington and taking the train North. A conversation with a local had me keeping my rental car for the duration and heading to Lake Taupo to take advantage of the scenery and an afternoon at Wairakei Hot Springs, which is somewhat less touristy and very relaxing.
The next day I drove to Otorohango, my jumping off spot for the Waimoto Caves. On the way I stopped at Haku Falls-not spectacular, but a nice side trip. I also stopped at Waireki Thermal Valley, which gives a good look at the continuing volcanic activity in New Zealand. I hiked down to the bottom of the valley and took the bus back up. I found it to be somewhat like Yellowstone, but without the tourist crowds. Or bison. I had a conversation with a young Israeli man who was traveling in the opposite direction. We compared notes and exchanged recommendations on things to see.
The following day I went to the Waimoto Glowworm Caves in Orotanga. This was an awe-inspiring excursion into a cave, with a short walk and then a boat ride. The glowworms inhabit the roof of the cave, and in the darkness seem like thousands of tiny stars. I think this was a must-see.
Off to Matamata to get ready for my visit to Hobbiton. The drive was shorter than I thought, and I arrived midday. I was able to check into my motel, which was about a mile outside of the village. The road tended to be busy and noisy, so I would recommend staying in the village.
I had fortunately booked a dinner tour well in advance-it was sold out for days. Arriving at The Shire’s Rest, I found a gift shop and café, as well as plenty of parking and restrooms. Hobbiton in located on a sheep farm, so we were taken in on short bus ride. We were given a delightful tour of the entire movie set (which looks like a real Hobbit Village) and then treated to an amazing dinner at the Green Dragon Inn, served family style.
Our guides were informative and enthusiastic, allowing plenty of time to explore. The dinner, while expensive, meant we had the place to ourselves. It was dark after dinner, and we were given lanterns and taken back to the green for a lovely closing to an amazing tour. Even if you are not a rabid Lord of the Rings or Hobbit fan, this tour was well worth it.
My last stop was three days in Auckland. I really hate driving in big cities, even though I used to do it all the time. I’ve lost my enthusiasm for freeways. I booked a room at the Andelin Guest House in Devonport, across the bay from the main city. Once I got there, I parked my car and didn’t move it until I drove to the airport. It was walking distance to the ferry port and the main street of town, filled with restaurants and shops. My host recommended a couple of restaurants, and he was right about both!
I booked a wine tour on Waiheke Island for the next day. The ferry from Auckland stops at Devonport and then goes on to Waiheke. My tour was a small group of eleven, and we had a great day. On the way back I had a mishap with the ferry. The only scheduled to stop at Devonport is at 4 pm, and there was a long line to get on. The line was stopped once they reached capacity, and I missed it. That meant I had to take the ferry to Auckland and then back to Devonport. If I were to do it again, I would stay on Waiheke and have a nice leisurely dinner, do a little shopping, and then return.
On my last day I took the ferry to Auckland to explore the city. I found that the waterfront area isn’t as nicely developed as the of Sydney, although they are working on it. I decided to take the tour of the Weta Workshop, which is a company that creates movie illusions: creatures, makeup, buildings, etc. It was a fun and interesting to see the development of movie magic.
So that’s it. After five weeks of travel, I headed to the airport, braving the holiday travel in Auckland. Note to self: NEVER forget to turn in the keys to your rental car.
My flight to Christchurch was easy, although I did learn one thing: New Zealand Air will not allow you to put your bag under the seat in front of you if you are in an exit row. I was told after I was seated, which meant I didn’t have access to iPad or headphones since I was also in the window seat. I entertained myself by using their headphones and watching a movie.
To make my life easier, I took SuperShuttle to the hotel rather than deal with luggage and a bus just to save a few dollars. I was at the Christchurch City Hotel, which is a new hotel in the center of the city. It was a great location, since the tourist trolley was right around the corner, along with a wide variety of shopping and restaurants. And the staff was great. Their top floor bar and restaurant is a hidden gem-good food and drink in a gorgeous setting.
Christchurch is a city in transition, still recovering from the devastating series of earthquakes in 2010 and 2011. The central business district is a combination of older historic buildings, new construction to replace destroyed buildings, and more than a few empty lots where buildings once stood. The “cardboard cathedral” is the church that was badly damaged in the quakes-it’s truly a cardboard cathedral, since the front of it is a temporary façade painted to look like the original cathedral.
I took the Kiwi Rail train trip to Greymouth and back to see more of that area of the South Island. It wasn’t what I hoped for. I was advised their premier seating wasn’t really necessary, so I booked the regular class. Big mistake. On the way West I was seated in front of a family of ten who were apparently unaware that there were other passengers on the train. They spent the entire trip chattering loudly, so I couldn’t hear the narration, or even the PA announcements. Fortunately, they were staying in Greymouth, so the ride back to Christchurch was much quieter. To make the trip even more pleasant, it stopped raining so I could see the scenery! If I return, this is one excursion I wouldn’t do again.
Because I brought clothing for the wedding and festivities in Australia, I thought I might ship some things home, along with some gifts I wanted to buy. Don’t plan on doing that! When I checked I learned that the cost to ship to the US for a small package of about 5 pounds was nearly $200. I decided to just suck it up and stuff my suitcase.
From Christchurch I flew to Nelson, at the far North of the South Island. This was a commuter flight, and I found that Kiwis are not at all as fussy as the American TSA. Once I presented my passport to check my bag, I did not have to provide my ID again, and there was NO security check. The flight was a quick hour, and it gave me an opportunity to see the landscape from the air.
Then it was time to learn to drive on the left side of the road. This was a first for me, and I’ve been fretting about it for months. I picked up my Avis car at the Nelson airport, and took some time to get familiar with it before I roared off into infinity and beyond. I used my phone to navigate, and for my next trip I’m going to make sure I have some sort of holder so I don’t lose it on the floor. Driving on the left really wasn’t all that difficult, as long as I paid attention to what I was doing at the corners and the traffic circles. I did have a tendency to signal a turn with my windshield wipers, however.
I drove to Kaikura, a 3 ½ hour drive. I could have just driven from Christchurch in less time than flying and driving, but I added the Kaikura stop late in the game. The first part of the trip was on narrow mountain roads, so I wouldn’t recommend it to a nervous driver. I love those kinds of roads, and really enjoyed the drive. The latter part of the trip was along the coast, which gave me a look at some stunning scenery.
In Kaikura I stayed at The White Morph, very close to my excursion for the next day, and with a stunning view of a wall. In the morning I went to the Dolphin Encounter and checked in early. They have a nice café there, so I was able to get breakfast before I was called to get my wetsuit and gear needed for my swim with the dolphins. They transported us to the dock, and after a 20-minute ride out to the area where we found the dolphins, we were ready to get in the water. I can only say that this was an experience I’ll never forget. I did swim with sting rays in the Carribbean, and there were maybe ten or fifteen sting rays in the area. With the dolphins, there was something like 600 animals, all curious and ready to play. As soon as we entered the water they headed right for us, swimming around us and jumping out of the water. We stayed in the area about an hour, with the dolphins moving away, coming back, jumping and somersaulting, and generally having a good time.
Next was the Marlborough wine area, staying at the Cork and Keg in Blenheim. This is a small pub with just three little motel rooms, but the staff was wonderful and the room was just what I needed. It was nice to just walk across the parking lot for dinner, being able to have a drink since I didn’t have to drive. The pub also has their own cast of characters, so I had a nice chat both nights with the locals.
Wine tasting was on the agenda, although I had to limit what I actually drank since I drove. I visited the No.1 sparkling wine tasting room, since they are recommended for how they ferment their wines. I had a little extra time before my appointment, so I also stopped at the Gin Shack. They were very friendly also, and gave me an overview of their distilling methods and the botanicals they use. Then I had an appointment at Fromm vineyard. I had met the vintner at a wine tasting back in the states, and he invited me to visit. They did a very nice personal tour and wine tasting for me, which made me feel pretty special. The entire Marlborough wine country is beautiful, and the array of vineyards is impressive. There are almost 70,000 acres of vineyards, by far the largest growing region in the country.
I finished my tour of the South Island with a drive to Picton, where I caught the ferry to the North Island. Finding the rental car return was a challenge, since the ferry landing is being upgraded. Note: you can take a rental car from one island to the other. I dropped my car and picked up another in Wellington. It would have been much easier to just keep the car, although I’m not sure what the extra cost would be.
This is the first post of my Australia/New Zealand adventure. Heading South out of Montana, visiting family, and ending up in California for my flight out.
Teaser: I listened to an interesting program on the radio about time, boredom, and adventure. Maybe my next post…
Could it be?
In the past few days I came across an article saying that according to research, planning a trip brings more pleasure than the actual vacation itself. Apparently anticipation releases more endorphins than being on that beach, that mountain, that cruise ship. I sort of get it: you dream of sitting on a sun sundrenched beach with a mai-tai, but the reality also brings sand fleas, clouds, and crowds. Well, I’m going to put that information to a test.
I’m about to depart on a five-week trip to Australia and New Zealand. Alone. Mostly. It all started when a friend and former coworker informed me she was moving to Australia to be with the gentleman she has been traveling with the past few years. She asked if I had a list of the dates for countries we visited together on a cruise from Rome to Dubai. She needed the dates for her application for a permanent visa in Australia. Now THAT was an epic trip. And yes, I had all the dates in my diary. I sent the information, and jokingly said I was going to have to come visit. Yes, she replied, we do have a guest room. You should come. This was a short time after I lost my husband, and planning a trip was just the distraction I needed, so I took her up on her offer.
I quickly realized that if I was going to sit on a plane for 15 hours, I was going to make the most of it. I told another friend, an inveterate traveler, that I was planning to take three weeks and go to New Zealand also. She suggested three months! That wasn’t in the cards, so I compromised and expanded the trip to five and a half weeks. As I was working in Alaska most of the summer, I was doing my research and planning whenever I had a bit of free time. I also ended up revising my itinerary several times as I met some Kiwis here and there-a wine rep doing a tasting at our favorite hangout, three gentlemen on vacation in Denali, Alaska, a lady who also loves to travel.
So I’m heading to Australia, first to attend my friend’s wedding and celebrate with some of my former coworkers from Alaska. Then on to New Zealand. Planning has been a challenge: six flights, three trains, two rental cars, and a ferry! Not to mention hotels, motels, and vacation rentals. My mantra will be: Take a deep breath. Things will go wrong. Go with the flow and take advantage of the unplanned joys.
Oh, and the photo shows some books of Scotland and Ireland. That’s next. And then…Hungary, Austria and Germany?
Travels with Billie 