Leaving Prague by rail, friend Anna and I headed off to Budapest to meet my cousins and friends for our Viking cruise on the Danube. The train ride was nice, but we had a rocky start. We had reserved seats, and our ticket showed a car number and seat numbers. It was a long train, with no car numbers visible. We tried to ask rail personnel, but no one seemed interested in answering questions by two old ladies dragging suitcases. We jumped on a car just before the train started rolling, and discovered car numbers on signs INSIDE the train car. And we were about five cars away from where we needed to be. Apparently we weren’t alone, since there commenced a Keystone Kops dance up and down the aisles as riders moved either forward or back with their luggage in the narrow aisle. When we got off in Budapest, we found that the car numbers were on the outside of the train, but on the opposite side from boarding!
Our next challenge was on arrival at the Aurea Ana Palace Hotel in Budapest. I chose the hotel for its proximity to the ship dock (it wasn’t that close-see later in the post) and because it claimed to be “on the banks of the Danube River” (it was two blocks away and surrounded by taller buildings.) On arrival we found ourselves at the bottom of a staircase-no elevator-to get to the front desk. And when we got to our room, I found that they had put us in a room with a King bed, when I had requested two queens. We were told they had only one room left with two beds, and it was downstairs. You guessed it: no elevator. Well, at least we had a lovely view of…the other side of the building. And the windows to the balcony were locked. Bottom line: if you go, choose another hotel. I’m usually pretty good at choosing lodgings, but once in a while I get skunked. Anyway, we met our travel companions and had a nice dinner with a little bubbly to make me less grumpy. I’d say the best part of the hotel was the bartender. That’s him in the back behind the bar.
The next day we took the hop-on hop-off bus to get an overview of the city. We just rode it around to get an idea of what we might want to see more of, since we had a guided excursion planned in two days. We also explored along the Danube, and came across a place I had wanted to visit. Shoes on the Danube Bank is a memorial to the 23000 people, mostly Jews, who were murdered during WWII by the fascist Hungarian militia. They were taken to the river and made to take off their shoes, because shoes were valuable at that time. They were then shot and the bodies tossed into the river to take them away. It was a moving reminder of that terrible time in history.
The following day was the start of our river cruise. I again made a bad call: I ordered a Bolt taxi to take us to the ship. Our companions had the hotel order a taxi for them, but we wouldn’t all fit in one cab, hence the Bolt, which I’ve had great luck with in Europe.
To set the scene: it was pouring rain. The ship was at a dock over a mile down the river (there are several docks along the riverfront so the ships change docks from time to time.) We went out to wait for our taxi, and he pulled up on the corner a half block away. My friend went down and asked him to pull up to the hotel so we could load our bags. He did, with a surly attitude. He then drove us to an entrance to the riverside road, which had been closed for a marathon race the previous day, and told us to get out. We asked where the ship was. He said, “You walk,” using his fingers to indicate walking. We protested that the ship was nowhere in sight. He said “Road closed. You walk,” and he got out and unloaded our bags. So there we were, with the rain coming down like it was trying to fill up the Danube again, dragging our suitcases along a cobblestone road by the river. We walked a mile in the rain until we came to the ship. Which, incidentally, was docked in a place where taxis were pulling up right next to the boarding ramp. I know it was a mile because my Apple watch told me so. I also averaged two four letter words per yard. At least. And to make it even more ignominious, I got a text from my cousin telling me he was in the bar on the ship having his first scotch.
All that aside, we were welcomed and fussed over by the ship personnel, and headed directly to the bar in order to make me less grumpy. Again.
We spent two nights in Budapest aboard the ship, allowing us one full day to explore the city more throughly. We had booked a private tour, and that turned out to be one of our better decisions. There were six of us along with our driver and our guide. We met with our guide in the morning to decide on our itinerary, and off we went. First across the river to the castle district, where our guide gave us a great tour of Matthias Church.
Then we went to the Citadel to take in the incredible view of the city. After a stop in a tiny art shop for my crafty and talented cousin to buy supplies, we went to a restaurant suggested by our guide. It was a great choice-the food was outstanding and it contained a museum of Hungarian life and artistry. I had a dish that included seared duck liver on a base of something similar to ratatouille. And a special drink that came with flower petals on the side!
After lunch we headed out again, and made a stop at their thermal baths. How I wish I had come prepared with a swimsuit and more time! You can even bathe in beer!
Our final stop of the day was Heroes square, filled with statues of famous and revered Hungarians. Nearby was Vajdahunyad Castle, which I thought looked like Dracula’s Castle. Turns out it was actually used as a set for one of the Dracula movies. There was a lovely venue nearby that was unfortunately closed for an event, but we did get to walk through the courtyard. It has won awards for architectural design, and I think they were well deserved. And how interesting to find a statue of a familiar American figure! Yes, that’s George Washington. I never knew he had Hungarian roots!
Our day was brought to a close with dinner on the ship and a birthday celebration to mark my eightieth year. I can’t imagine a better way to mark such an important milestone.
When we were planning this trip, part of the reason we chose this week was to celebrate my birthday and my cousins’ anniversary. Celebrating my birthday aboard a cruise ship in Budapest was so far beyond anything I ever dreamed of that it felt a bit surreal. Growing up in a small town on the Montana prairie, and then in Alaska, I could not anticipate something so amazing. I feel so fortunate to have experienced it.
Travels with Billie 